RIDERS, Fall's Fashion Plaything

Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor Men's Fashion Writer

Photography by Heji Shin

GOOMHEO Fall 2023 remains true to her warrior stance and the exploration of erotic subtexts of the male form and the brands love of the ideal human form stands triumphant.

Next season's provocative campaign photographed by German artist Heji Shin captures a wide range of "Riders". The images are an embrace the rebel, erotic procurement, rough trade all steeped in expressions of contemporary masculinity. They are unapologetic playthings. GOOMHEO Fall 2023 party boys, like so many generations before them, are determined to live their lives on their own terms.

These riding rebels are fully fashion in the sculptural, body conscious denim, followers of the brand have come to know. High-collar, breast plate like tops with trucker pocket details floating on the body, in cracked skin like textures. The sleeveless forms are a filled with details such as hidden front closures and pleated utility features.The leather for next season is boldly embellished with studs and fringe, there are also foiled denim pieces to dyed looks shown en suite.

GOOMHEO is a London based designer who's fashion often has a concentrated dose of performing identities, "Her work is recognized for it's boundary breaking masculinity and intriguing use of printed textiles... 'Heo describes her designs for the fall 2023 season as a "motley crew of characters who defy convention and refuse to conform... boldly disregarding societal norms and expectations."

Heo's collection for Fall 2023 had a informed imprint of Parisian styles in terms of silhouette and technique. There was a draped covered head, reminiscent of Azzedine Alaïa's work during the late nineteen eighties for his muse Grace Jones and expressive shapes with fitted upper bodies paired with rounded volume short lengths reminiscent of Lanvin designed by Claude Montana during the early nineties. One can easily spot historic shapes such attenuated short cap sleeve capes form the master Cristóbal Balenciaga whose details of studding recalling the work of Pierre Balmain to fully fashion embellishment recalling to Gianni Versace 1993 men’s collection, the South Beach Stories, captured by Doug Ordway in Miami. Within all of the French language Heo has managed to British accent. This is an almost glam-rock nod in a pair of velvet trousers shown with a flared sleeve shirt evoking memories of Ossie Clark and Granny Takes a Trip.

She has managed make this wide mix of elements and expansion of her vocabulary modern through her selection of colors, textiles and print sensibilities connected to urban artwork. It's a successful collection and a shift forward utilizing established luxury fashion vocabulary. These are new identities "ruggedly charismatic figures, affectionately referred to as “grungy beefcakes,” who possess an irresistible allure" ....the irresistible allure is the season's nuanced step toward luxury.