{"id":47421,"date":"2025-03-20T08:51:10","date_gmt":"2025-03-20T08:51:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.irkmagazine.com\/post\/amour-etrange-voulez-vous-me-le-donner\/"},"modified":"2025-04-01T21:53:01","modified_gmt":"2025-04-01T20:53:01","slug":"amour-etrange-voulez-vous-me-le-donner","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.irkmagazine.com\/fr\/post\/amour-etrange-voulez-vous-me-le-donner\/","title":{"rendered":"AMOUR \u00c9TRANGE… Voulez-vous me le donner ?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

AMOUR \u00c9TRANGE<\/em> Les looks printaniers et les looks beaut\u00e9 sont inspir\u00e9s par les sons et les th\u00e8mes post-punk provocateurs de STRANGE LOVE …..<\/em> de DEPECHE <\/strong>MODE (1987). <\/strong>un hommage \u00e9ditorial beaut\u00e9 et mode \u00e0 la tourn\u00e9e nord-am\u00e9ricaine du groupe ce printemps 2023<\/p>\n\n

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Mannequins Nils Bremer de Link Models International et Julia B. de NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

RED\u00c9FINITION DE L\u2019ATTITUDE :<\/h3>\n\n

Une red\u00e9finition de l\u2019attitude r\u00e9sume le changement esth\u00e9tique de la fin des ann\u00e9es 1980. C\u2019\u00e9tait un moment o\u00f9 la beaut\u00e9, le style, la mode et la musique se sont align\u00e9s pour cr\u00e9er une empreinte culturelle durable. Cela n\u2019a \u00e9t\u00e9 nulle part plus \u00e9vident que pendant l\u2019\u00e8re de la Nouvelle Vague \u00ab\u00a0Strange Love\u00a0\u00bb. Le single \u00e0 succ\u00e8s de 1987 de Depeche Mode \u00ab\u00a0Music for the Masses\u00a0\u00bb \u00e9tait \u00e0 l\u2019image de la jeunesse. Le look du groupe, captur\u00e9 dans des d\u00e9coupes de magazines en couleur granuleuse et des clips musicaux bruts en noir et blanc, est devenu le mod\u00e8le du style d\u2019une jeune g\u00e9n\u00e9ration. L\u2019av\u00e8nement de la photographie num\u00e9rique brouille les fronti\u00e8res entre le r\u00e9alisme brut et la fantaisie raffin\u00e9e. Il a ouvert la voie \u00e0 une \u00e9poque qui tentait d\u2019\u00e9quilibrer l\u2019audace et le raffinement. <\/p>\n\n

PROGRESSION D\u2019UN LOOK : <\/h3>\n\n

\u00ab\u00a0Music for the Masses\u00a0\u00bb a marqu\u00e9 une transition dans la musique \u00e9lectronique post-punk, non seulement dans le son, mais aussi dans sa direction visuelle et mode. La mode de l\u2019\u00e9poque \u00e9tait encore li\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019esth\u00e9tique de la jeunesse britannique de la classe ouvri\u00e8re, avec un penchant de la fin des ann\u00e9es 1980 pour la sant\u00e9 raffin\u00e9e. Le contraste entre le style urbain rugueux et v\u00eatu de denim et l\u2019application th\u00e9\u00e2trale du maquillage \u2013 tant pour les hommes que pour les femmes \u2013 d\u00e9finissait une attitude de r\u00e9bellion contr\u00f4l\u00e9e. <\/p>\n\n

Les cheveux ont pris le devant de la sc\u00e8ne en tant que d\u00e9claration de mode ou d\u2019all\u00e9geance \u00e9prouvable. Coup\u00e9 et h\u00e9riss\u00e9 ou liss\u00e9, tout cela soulignait l\u2019importance de la texture et de la nostalgie. L\u2019utilisation visible de produits capillaires dans les ann\u00e9es quatre-vingt n\u2019\u00e9tait pas seulement un choix esth\u00e9tique. Elle pr\u00e9figurait l\u2019avenir des march\u00e9s de la beaut\u00e9, o\u00f9 les produits volumateurs, hydratants et rehausseurs de texture domineraient. <\/p>\n\n

TEMPS DE TEST :<\/h3>\n\n

En 2023 et en 1987, les d\u00e9clarations tonales sont toujours d\u2019actualit\u00e9. L\u2019influence n\u2019est pas seulement nostalgique, mais aussi directionnelle, guidant les designers contemporains et les marques de beaut\u00e9 vers une fusion de minimalisme structur\u00e9 et de texture exp\u00e9rimentale qui dominera les ann\u00e9es 1990. Selon Marilyn Opiz, professionnelle de la beaut\u00e9 de longue date, \u00ab ce style a r\u00e9uni le glamour et la r\u00e9bellion juv\u00e9nile en m\u00eame temps, la combinaison s\u2019est r\u00e9unie comme nous ne l\u2019avons jamais vue auparavant… C\u2019est vraiment la derni\u00e8re fois que nous avons vu un glamour ambitieux. <\/p>\n\n

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Articles D\u00e9finis, Jeans MAVI, Chaussures GOLA 24 pouces-14K Cha\u00eene Cubaine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

UNE PERSPECTIVE MODERNE : Pour l\u2019\u00e9ditorial \u00ab Strange Love \u00bb d\u2019IRK, l\u2019esth\u00e9tique fait le lien entre le pass\u00e9 et le pr\u00e9sent, mettant en vedette des cr\u00e9ateurs \u00e9mergents des collections Printemps 2024 de New York Men\u2019s Day aux c\u00f4t\u00e9s de d\u00e9taillants de style de vie am\u00e9ricains s\u2019adressant \u00e0 une client\u00e8le jeune et soucieuse de la mode. La palette de couleurs refl\u00e8te une version moderne de l\u2019ambiance de la fin des ann\u00e9es quatre-vingt : gris ardoise doux, rose cendr\u00e9, tons ciment et l\u2019infusion occasionnelle de mailles lam\u00e9es dor\u00e9es et de mailles roses textur\u00e9es, discr\u00e8tes mais percutantes. Le maquillage embo\u00eete le pas, embrassant l\u2019harmonie tonale. Des teintes chaudes et naturelles qui d\u00e9finissent le visage. Les l\u00e8vres et les joues sont rouges de chaleur, tandis que la peau est l\u00e9g\u00e8rement tonique avec des nuances remodelantes qui s\u2019estompent parfaitement. <\/p>\n\n

BORD DE L\u2019\u0152IL : <\/h3>\n\n

L\u2019\u0153il est le point central de cette \u00e9volution esth\u00e9tique. Pour les hommes comme pour les femmes, le look est \u00e0 la fois saisissant et portable : des yeux doux bord\u00e9s de crayon avec du kh\u00f4l noir et du marron, des ombres de gris profond et d\u2019\u00e9tain diffus, m\u00e9lang\u00e9s \u00e0 des accents d\u2019or rose. Un clin d\u2019\u0153il \u00e0 l\u2019exc\u00e8s de la fin des ann\u00e9es 80 \u00e9merge dans l\u2019interaction des textures. Les accents de couleur chaude de la fourrure mettent subtilement en valeur les touches dor\u00e9es scintillantes au niveau de l\u2019arcade sourcili\u00e8re et dessinent une aile dramatique. Les sourcils sont audacieux et fournis, presque une d\u00e9claration de maquillage pour les yeux en soi. <\/p>\n\n

LA FINITION DE LA PEAU : <\/h3>\n\n

Ce qui rend cette direction beaut\u00e9 particuli\u00e8rement moderne, c\u2019est la fa\u00e7on dont les tons neutres se fondent avec les textures naturelles de la peau. Contrairement aux finitions ouvertement poudr\u00e9es du pass\u00e9 ou aux finitions hyper-brillantes des ann\u00e9es 1990, les formulations d\u2019aujourd\u2019hui trouvent un \u00e9quilibre. Il y a un m\u00e9lange de textures poudre, gel et cr\u00e8me, cr\u00e9ant un mat discret qui est un style jeune et fougueux. L\u2019\u00e9volution de la beaut\u00e9 en 2023 refl\u00e8te l\u2019\u00e9quilibre d\u00e9licat de 1987 entre raffinement et crudit\u00e9, prouvant que certaines attitudes dans la mode et la beaut\u00e9 ne sont pas seulement cycliques mais p\u00e9rennes. <\/p>\n\n

En savoir plus : LAURA BLUE EYES par French Cowboy<\/a><\/p>\n\n

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Body Abercrombie & Fitch, jean MAVI, cha\u00eene cubaine 18 pouces-14K<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
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(Sa) manchette en cuir Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, haut en maille AKNVAS sur combinaison Abercrombie & Fitch, bottes de Chris Donovan, \u00e9tui Colibri dor\u00e9 vintage, gants fabriqu\u00e9s sur mesure en Allemagne, veste (Him) de l\u2019Atelier Cillian avec jean Abercrombie & Fitch, chaussures de GOLA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
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Gilet sans manches – Atelier Cillian<\/a> – (Her) Abercrombie et Fitch haut \u00e0 manches longues, collier vintage Paolo Gucci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
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Atelier Cillian , Aberchrombie & Fitch, collier vintage Paolo Gucci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
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Tous les looks de Atelier Cillian PRINTEMPS 2023<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Collaboration mode et art IRK Printemps 2023<\/p>\n\n

Direction de la mode, direction artistique et pratique cr\u00e9ative par les r\u00e9dacteurs en chef d\u2019IRK <\/strong>MAGAZINE, Patrick Michael Hughes et Stacy Seiler.<\/p>\n\n

Patrick Michael Hughes R\u00e9dacteur de mode senior, R\u00e9dacteur de mode masculine<\/p>\n\n

Stacy Seiler Graphiste, r\u00e9dactrice artistique IRK<\/p>\n\n

Jeff Mikkelson Photographe : Mikkelson est un photographe et r\u00e9alisateur de beaut\u00e9 et de mode prim\u00e9 bas\u00e9 \u00e0 New York, avec des clients \u00e9ditoriaux et publicitaires dans le monde entier.<\/p>\n\n

Li Murillo Coiffeuse et Meron Weyante Maquilleuse<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

AMOUR \u00c9TRANGE Les looks printaniers et les looks beaut\u00e9 sont inspir\u00e9s par les sons et les th\u00e8mes post-punk provocateurs de STRANGE LOVE ….. de DEPECHE MODE (1987). un hommage \u00e9ditorial beaut\u00e9 et mode \u00e0 la tourn\u00e9e nord-am\u00e9ricaine du groupe ce printemps 2023 RED\u00c9FINITION DE L\u2019ATTITUDE : Une red\u00e9finition de l\u2019attitude r\u00e9sume le changement esth\u00e9tique de…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":21105,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[260],"tags":[283,96,268,270,88,282],"class_list":["post-47421","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-la-mode","tag-culture-fr","tag-culture","tag-la-mode","tag-la-mode-et-lart","tag-style","tag-style-fr"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAMOUR \u00c9TRANGE... 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Patrick's love of travel and terrain enabled him to becoming an experienced cross-country equestrian intensively riding in a number of locations in South America Scandinavia,The United Kingdom and Germany. However, he is not currently riding, but rather speaking internationally to designers, product development teams, marketing teams and ascending designers in the US, Europe and China. Following his BA in the History of Art from Manhattanville College in Purchase, New York he later completed graduate studios in exhibition design in New York. it was with the nudge and a conversation in regard to a design assignment interviewing Richard Martin curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art he was encouraged to consider shifting his focus to the decorative arts with a concentration in fashion history and curation. Patrick completed graduate studies 17th and 18th century French Royal interiors and decoration and 18th century French fashion culture at Mus\u00e9e Les Arts Decoratifs-Mus\u00e9e de Louvre in Paris. Upon his return to New York along with other classes and independent studies in American fashion he earned his MA in the History of Decorative Arts and Design from the Parsons\/Cooper Hewitt Design Museum program in New York. His final specialist focus was in 19th century English fashion and interiors with distinction in 20th century American fashion history and design. 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