Updated: Sep 16, 2022
Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor Men's Fashion Writer
COPENHAGEN: 'Fashion en plein air' has been one of the stars this season during Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023. The outdoor setting has been a noteworthy backdrop showcasing what the gentleman stroller in Northern Europe will be wearing during the 2023 spring season. There is a long languid line to pay attention to in a range of fabric weights and textures form soft matching sports inspired ensembles to modern Matrix leather and work-wear inspired re-mixes. The silhouettes have an unhurried, relaxed manner, without effort, easily at home in an open settings form passageways to bridges with spectacular light and dramatic sunsets. The forthcoming season's proportions of long and short, loose and sagging they all have a nonchalant sensibility. There is a modern wealth to the privilege of this almost undone style, recalling the current privilege of ripped jeans.
SUNFLOWER is a Copenhagen design collective of menswear designers founded by Ulrik Pedersen who were "yearning for something more lasting, real clothes made for men's daily lives." This season’s show was a set up in the courtyard outside the company’s offices and design studio. The site specific gathering helped claim the space as a creative zone. The soundtrack of the show was a live performance by Anton Falck, lead singer of the Danish band ‘First Hate’ they are noted for making pop music with pristine vibes.. He sang about "all the pretty boys"
Spring/ Summer 2023 is collection number nine. The brand is not known for showing on a regular basis however this collection continues the stated goals of 'a fresh approach to a contemporary menswear, while balancing understated, intelligent design and respect for tailoring traditions.' SUNFLOWER's strength this season was in the tailoring and the a youthful putting together of looks some of which were styled on female models. The modernity lies craft and clever attention of mixing highly formal details such as high-stance peak lapels on sweeping double breasted coats grazing at either knee length or mid-calf.
There are a range of looks in this tight collection but its hard not to see that there are a number of creative talents and even hands contributing to the collective of "menswear authorities who grew frustrated with passing fads and fashion trends". However, its the the best quality fabrics, technical innovation and construction by skilled craftsmen which makes this artisanal Danish craft house brand have a unique and authentic flare for blending old world tailoring, elegant and hip but not too hipster.
WOOD WOOD's ambition has been to influence culture through contemporary, accessible streetwear and community-driven projects. According to the brand co-founded by Karl-Oskar Olsen, “WOOD WOOD is much more than a brand. It’s about style and attitude. We were raised with the desire to evolve constantly, and we’ll keep on taking the brand even further by combining elements of underground and high-end into our very own aesthetic”. The brand was founded in Nørrebro, Copenhagen, by Brian SS Jensen and Karl-Oskar Olsen and has since expanded to include stores in Aarhus, Berlin and London. All of these locations are integral to the Wood Wood community, which continues to evolve through local involvement.
“Escape to Paradise” was the title of the Spring/Summer 2023. It was staged on Lille Langebro, an architectural sight and daily passageway for more than 11,000 pedestrians and bike riders in Copenhagen. The inspiration this season is artistic communities who, throughout time, have found serenity by the water and a space to make art. Most notably the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni in Venice is cited as a reference point. This is where Peggy Guggenheim's patronage flourished as the workspace for some of the 20th century's greatest Abstract Expressionists. There were styling nods to Guggenheim in a host of accessories such as sunglasses and simple sweeping teach coats.
The goal of Spring/ Summer 2023's collection was to imagine how Guggenheim's atelier would look and feel today. The collection expands on the heritage of artist's work-wear, such as carpenter pants with tool loops and painter's shirts. The silhouettes suggest how artists would dress in their retreat by the water – from starting work in the early hours of daybreak to the soirées at the Palazzo at sunset. Further, this season’s collection introduces garments for frequently wear and a range of occasions. Spring/ Summer 2023 was designed to transform from day wear through to the evening, suggesting a notion of freedom. "In this way, functionality is not only in focus on a practical level but, most importantly, is implemented to achieve a comfortable feel."
WOOD WOOD's men's-specific pieces incorporate strong, playful, all-over graphics on shirts and pants, easy layering sets with tailed additions. The graphic details in this collection take a start with 'Peggy Guggenheim's poetic appreciation of rays of sunlight dancing over the water'.
Spring/ Summer 2023 has a layered perspective of graphic elements, including a refernce to stairs at Guggenheim' Palazzo and the sunsets over Venice. Other elements of the visual scenery are referenced: an abstract coastline foliage and the beach.
This was quite a striking collection and one which was a memorable highlight in this season's offerings at Copenhagen Fashion Week.