An Early Look at De Sarno's Gucci Male 2025

Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor Men's Fashion Writer

Images from Gucci PreFall 2025

GUCCI MEN'S PRE FALL2025

Gucci Pre-Fall 2025 Sabato De Sarno’s Pre-Fall 2025 men’s collection for Gucci feels like a love letter to the 1970s—a decade revered for its free-spirited creativity and sartorial boldness—while remaining grounded in the DNA of the house. It’s a collection that blends nostalgia and modernity, offering pieces that feel both heritage-driven and refreshingly contemporary. In the Pre-fall 2025 collection, De Sarno reaffirms his vision for Gucci: a balance of relaxed sophistication and craftsmanship that appeals to a new generation of Gucci devotees while honoring its past. 

In fashion, designers are often the time travelers, toggling between the future and the past to conjure their visions. De Sarno has chosen the latter, the rich texture of Gucci’s archives and injecting them with a modern ease. The result? Menswear that is as evocative as it is wearable. Blazers are oversized yet tailored, paired with loose-fitting trousers that have a laid-back elegance.

Central to this collection is the continued theme of “Ancora,” De Sarno’s rallying cry since his debut at Gucci in January Gucci Pre-Fall 2025. Meaning "more," “again,” or even evoking a sense of timelessness, the word anchors his vision of Gucci as a house that looks forward by doubling down on its roots. In the Pre-Fall 2025 collection, ‘Ancora’ is visualized through color—most notably a deep, luscious burgundy that is a running thread in the overall palette. It appears in double-breasted suits with monogrammed textures, sharply turned-up collars on long coats, and luxuriously cut cardigan-style jackets. Where Alessandro Michele’s Gucci played in the space of gender fluidity, De Sarno’s take on menswear is far more restrained, perhaps even “gentle” recalling the word gentleman. 

GUCCI MEN'S PRE FALL2025

The stars of the season are the outerwear and shoes—a pairing that will no doubt please both buyers and fashion enthusiasts. Shearling-collared coats with embossed GG monograms, leather jackets rendered in rich, tactile textures, and a hooded jacket in 2025’s color of the year—“mocha”—are all standouts. De Sarno’s tailoring is noteworthy, with details like deeply rolled sleeve cuffs revealing striped linings, blending prep-school aesthetics with a distinctly European sensibility. Also, the forthcoming season of Gucci footwear captures a playful yet practical vibe, with loafers featuring everything from classic penny details to studded saddles. Euro-prep collides with grandpa-chic in the best possible way. 

Accessories continue Gucci’s tradition of reinvention. The iconic Jackie 1961 bag gets a modern refresh with bold materials and the house’s signature Web stripe, while the Blondie bag—reimagined in shearling—proves that even heritage silhouettes can surprise. Perhaps the most intriguing new addition is the Gucci Softbit a clean, modern design anchored by the classic horse-bit detail. 

GUCCI MEN'S PRE FALL2025

As François-Henri Pinault, Chairman & CEO of Kering, recently noted, “With Sabato De Sarno at the creative helm, we are confident that the house will continue both to influence fashion and culture through highly desirable products and collections, and to bring a singular and contemporary perspective to modern luxury.” Pinault’s optimism feels justified: De Sarno is not just a talented designer but an astute interpreter of the house’s history. 

De Sarno’s ascent to the top of Gucci was far from accidental. A Naples native, he started at Prada before sharpening his skills at Dolce & Gabbana and ultimately spending twelve years at Valentino, where he worked closely with Pierpaolo Piccioli. That tenure gave him the pedigree to lead a brand as iconic—and demanding—as Gucci. Yet in an industry of rapid-fire appointments and rotating creative directors, De Sarno’s arrival still managed to feel surprising, even serendipitous. 

GUCCI MEN'S PRE FALL2025

And speaking of surprises, one can’t ignore the amusing twist of industry intrigue: Matthieu Blazy, recently named artistic director of Chanel, bears an uncanny resemblance to De Sarno. Is this a case of fashion’s creative doppelgängers, or did someone at Kering misplace their headshot file? While I’ve been assured, they are, in fact, two separate people, one can’t help but imagine an alternate reality in which they’re swapping design briefs across brands. But enough of conspiracy theories.

Still, such confusion only underscores De Sarno’s singularity. With Pre-Fall 2025, he has solidified his vision for Gucci, offering a collection that pays homage to its past while confidently striding into the future. If this is Ancora, we can only hope there’s much, much more to come.

Left Sabato De Sarno - Right Matthieu Blazy of Chanel

GUCCI MEN'S PRE FALL2025