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Patrick Pham FW 2019 “Pearl of the Far East”

Luisa Olivera

Vietnamese designer Patrick Pham presents his collection “Pearl of the Far East” for Paris Couture FW 2019

Once again, Patrick Pham brings the vibrant spirit of Vietnam to the Paris couture runway for his FZ 2019-2020 collection. The designer presents “Pearl of the Far East,” a collection rooted in craftsmanship, memory and cultural identity.

Patrick Pham FW 2019 collection features 29 couture looks created with handmade textiles from some of Vietnam’s celebrated weaving villages. Moreover, Patrick Pham works with artisans from Huế, Vietnam’s former imperial capital, to bring traditional techniques into a contemporary couture setting.

Patrick Pham FW 2019 Vietnamese Craftsmanship

Textiles become the heart of Patrick Pham’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection. In particular, the designer introduces Lanh My A, a traditional Vietnamese silk with a distinctive dark finish.

The silk is dyed using the fruit of Diospyros mollis, locally known as mặc nưa. Historically, the luxurious textile has strong associations with royalty and wealth across Southeast Asia.

However, Patrick Pham does not treat tradition as something frozen in time. Instead, he pushes these materials toward bold silhouettes and dramatic eveningwear.

Traditional brocade also appears throughout the collection. Rich patterns collide with graphic shoulders, structured forms and architectural volumes. As a result, heritage craftsmanship gains an unexpectedly modern attitude.

There is very little restraint here. Color, texture and decoration compete for attention, yet that abundance becomes part of the collection’s identity.

From Jackfruit Wood To Couture

Meanwhile, Vietnamese materials move beyond the dresses themselves. Handcrafted accessories incorporate jackfruit wood, a material more commonly associated with construction and carving.

Here, Patrick Pham transforms it into colorful fashion accessories and footwear. The shift is playful but significant. Everyday regional materials suddenly enter the vocabulary of Paris couture.

The collection continues this experimentation through its closing wedding dress. Pham introduces material made from hyacinth flowers, turning another natural element into a couture statement.

Consequently, “Pearl of the Far East” becomes more than an exercise in surface decoration. It explores how local materials can change meaning through design.

Patrick Pham Brings Vietnam To Paris

Patrick Pham’s colorful aesthetic remains closely connected to his Vietnamese roots and childhood memories. Therefore, his work stands apart from the quieter minimalism often associated with French fashion.

Instead of softening that difference, he embraces it.

The result is unapologetically decorative, culturally specific and visually theatrical. Yet beneath the spectacle lies a deeper conversation between Vietnamese craftsmanship and Parisian couture.

With “Pearl of the Far East,” Patrick Pham does not simply reference his heritage. He places it directly under the Paris spotlight and allows it to command the runway.

Photographer: Sylvie LeFort

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