SOSHIOTSUKI AW26 in Florence
Leah Ermann
SOSHIOTSUKI AW26 at Pitti Uomo 109
Japanese brand SOSHIOTSUKI presented its Autumn–Winter 2026 collection At Pitti Immagine Uomo. The show titled “IN FLORENCE,” marked a rare runway moment for the label. This season, the designer brought a quiet confidence to Florence, the spiritual home of tailoring. In this collection, SOSHIOTSUKI explored the relationship between tailoring and the body. Additionally, the designer questioned the feeling of nostalgia for eras never personally lived. Instead of relying on dramatic gestures, the show introduced subtle shifts in structure and movement.
Tailoring in Motion: Structure, Body, and Detail
This season, SOSHIOTSUKI focused on the manipulation of classic tailoring details and the way they interact with the body in motion. Peak lapels and shirt collar tips appeared with an artificial curl, created through precise pattern engineering and ironwork. These subtle interventions introduced movement into garments that usually remain rigid and fixed. In addition, the collection featured Oxford shirts cut on the bias, which emphasised natural drape when worn and tucked in. At the same time, the collection questioned the idea of nostalgia. Rather than presenting it as a fixed theme, the designer approached nostalgia as a feeling shaped by imagination and distance. The clothes reflected a longing for eras never personally experienced, while remaining firmly grounded in the present through structure and clarity.
Florence, Japan, and the Idea of Reverse Importation
Florence, often regarded as the spiritual home of tailoring, offered a fitting stage for SOSHIOTSUKI’s show. Without formal training in tailoring or education abroad, Soshi Otsuki approached this context from an outsider’s perspective. Reflecting on Japan’s 1980s and 1990s bubble era, when Made in Italy suits shaped local menswear, he reimagined that exchange through the idea of reverse importation. “This is not about opposition, but rather a sense of coexistence,” Otsuki explained, as he sought to combine the strengths of Japanese and Italian tailoring. While the collection was presented in Florence, the brand remains firmly rooted in Japan.
Exploring Structure Through Collaboration
This season, SOSHIOTSUKI expanded its exploration of tailoring through a series of focused collaborations that emphasised structure rather than surface. The collection included work with PROLETA RE ART, which operates between art and clothing, and Spanish shirtmaker CAMISAS MANOLO, known for its technical precision. A partnership with GUNZE, founded in 1896, added a historical layer to the conversation around material and function. Pieces by artist KOTA OKUDA also appeared, continuing an ongoing dialogue between material and expression. In addition, a new collaboration with ASICS Sportstyle debuted on the runway, examining the relationship between sport, body structure, and movement. Each collaboration functioned as an experiment, reinforcing the collection’s focus on physicality, construction, and wear.
SOSHIOTSUKI’s First Runway Show and a Confident Step Forward
Presented in a runway format for the first time, the show marked a significant moment for the Tokyo-based designer. Showing at Pitti Immagine Uomo carried clear emotional weight, as the platform represents both history and recognition within menswear. Following his recent LVMH Prize win, Soshi Otsuki approached the moment with restraint rather than spectacle. Instead of signaling a dramatic shift, the collection reflected a desire to move forward with care and intention. Looking ahead, the brand remains focused on building meaningful projects and continuing to refine its approach to tailoring through steady, thoughtful progress.
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Leah Ermann is a South African Fashion Business student whose identity and vision are deeply rooted in the landscapes, cultures, and contradictions of her home country. Growing up in South Africa meant being constantly aware of extremes. These realities shaped her sensitivity to the world around her and challenged her understanding of fashion as something far beyond surface-level beauty. In a place where many people are fortunate simply to own a pair of shoes, Leah learned early on that clothing carries meaning, privilege, and responsibility.
Alongside this awareness grew a profound connection to nature and conservation, spending a lot of time in the bush deepened her understanding of the impact humans have on endangered wildlife and fragile ecosystems. Leah sees fashion as a silent but powerful language, a way to express identity, values, and cultural stories without words.
She is driven by a desire to explore the deeper meanings behind collections, to learn from new cultures, and to use fashion as a platform to amplify South African creativity, resilience, and humanity. Ultimately, her goal is to create work that not only reflects where she comes from whilst learning about other cultures, but also contributes to change, honoring both people and the natural world that shaped her.
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