Tony Ward Couture SS26- When garments become jewellery

“Facets of Light” by Couture designer Tony Ward

When you think of Couture, Tony Ward is a name to remember. He has defined celebrity style for decades, worn by icons such as Paris Hilton. In his new spring and summer 2026 collection, “Facets of light”, revealed on Monday, January 26th, he creates something realer: diamonds and dreamlike jewelry brought to life in fabric.

Sixty stunning silhouettes glided across the glossy parquet floor, evoking the sensation of sparkling morning dew in spring. Gowns composed of faceted glass, crystals, and stones lit the room, unveiling Tony Ward’s impeccable craftsmanship.

Born into a Lebanese couturier family, Tony Ward refined his skills at Dior under Gianfranco Ferré and at Chloé with Karl Lagerfeld, before launching his label in 1997, establishing a couture house defined by precision and French-Lebanese savoir-faire.

Light as Narrative

The setting at the Gallery of Mineralogy and Geology, connected to the National Museum of Natural History and the Jardin des Plantes, plays an active role in shaping the collection’s narrative. It frames an exploration of constant transformation, where light and reflection become central themes.

There is a lot of patchwork in the collection and very meticulous work around the shiny, almost liquid aspect, so that the light can hit it and reflect brilliantly.

New experimental techniques reinforce this dialogue between light and structure. The designer shares how they intentionally broke, painted, and reassembled glass panels in an elegant way, establishing patchwork as a central technique. Instead of acting as a mere decoration, the stones activate light and volume, transforming garments into bright structures.

Chromatic Transformations

Colour plays an equally essential role in this metamorphosis. Tony Ward discloses that he built the couture collection around gradient tones designed to shift under light, enhanced through the use of liquids and glosses. Drawing on a sense of genealogy, the collection traces the evolution of materials, iridescence, and colour across generations of form. Slim silhouettes allow these elements to remain at the forefront. Despite its visual detail, the palette remains restrained. The collection evolves around only five colors, explored through transitions rather than flat application.

We worked on five main colors, in gradient: from green to silver through coral, gold and black. There are touches of pale pink with mirrors, and pearly cobalt blue.

The Discipline of Haute Couture

Behind this apparent lightness lies an intense couture process. Backstage in an interview with IRK, Tony Ward reveals that a team of 250 people developed the collection entirely in house in less than two months, an exceptionally short time frame for Couture. Despite the large number of pieces shown, they never repeat a design. The house refuses mass distribution, keeping an absolute sense of exclusivity.

A large collection means never telling a client: “I have nothing else to offer you.”

The final bridal look encapsulates the collection’s philosophy. The collection’s only white tulle gown features stone embellishments and a satin drape, tied into a sculptural bow in the back. Though rich in detail, the dress remains remarkably light and fluid, as confirmed by Tony Ward, who designed it to move effortlessly and to exist beyond the runway, for future brides.

Jewellery as Structure

Jewellery emerges as a defining element throughout the collection, extending beyond adornment to shape the gowns themselves. This vision is further expressed through Tony Ward’s collaboration with Tyler Ellis, introduced through a series of jeweled clutches. Each crafted piece unites Tony Ward’s luminous couture embroidery with Tyler Elli’s renowned Italian savoir-faire.

This is a collection about jewellery. All the pieces are jewellery pieces.

Ultimately, Tony Ward’s spring summer 2026 couture collection celebrates wholeness. Every element aligns in harmony, where assembled materials come together to create evening gowns that feel complete and purposeful. Through light, structure and a commitment to exclusivity, Tony Ward affirms his place as a couturier who transforms precision into poetry.