ALAINPAUL FW26: A Living Repertoire
Leah Ermann
At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris on March 3, ALAINPAUL unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026 collection.
The brand presented a show that explored fashion through the lens of movement and history. In ALAINPAUL FW26, the designer introduced the idea of repertoire, a concept borrowed from dance where works evolve through continuous reinterpretation. Here, garments follow a similar logic, as clothing traditions are revived and reshaped over time. Through this approach, ALAINPAUL FW26 connects the language of dance with the evolving nature of the wardrobe.
ALAINPAUL FW26 and the Idea of Fashion as Repertoire
The concept of repertoire in dance forms the intellectual foundation of the ALAINPAUL FW26 collection. In dance, classical and contemporary works constantly return to the stage and gain new meaning through different bodies and performances. Futhermore, the designer applies this same idea to clothing by revisiting garments from the archives of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The ALAINPAUL FW26 collection studies how silhouettes and proportions have shaped the body over time. At the same time, these references meet contemporary ways of dressing that prioritise comfort and image. As a result, the garments explore the tension between historical form and modern movement. In contrast, rigid historical structures transform into designs that allow the body to move freely while still echoing the past.
Tension, Tailoring, and the Reimagining of Historical Silhouettes
The tension becomes visible through the tailoring and construction of the ALAINPAUL FW26 collection. Meanwhile, coats and jackets appear pulled both forward and backward, creating a silhouette that feels caught between opposing forces. Crossed button closures and elastic button systems at the back reinforce this effect while shaping a sharply defined waist across coats, dresses, and shirts. In addition, the collection reinterprets 18th-century panniers, translating their historic volume into contemporary silhouettes. Fluid viscose dresses and skirts expand outward with soft architectural forms that frame the body. Invisible internal structures support these shapes while allowing natural movement. As a result, the garments balanc structure and fluidity. Therefore, the body appears both gudied and liberated by the design.
Craft, Technology, and Collaboration
The ALAINPAUL FW26 collection also highlights several collaborations that merge traditional craft with modern technology. Moreover, in collaboration with Les Teintures de France, an 18th-century tapestry motif appears on a denim jacket and trousers through advanced 3D printing, creating textured surfaces that echo historical decoration. Additionally, ALAINPAUL FW26 introduces delicate “falling flower” motifs across the garments, while some silhouettes remain wrapped in silk organza, suggesting the protective garment bags used in archival conservation. At the same time, designer Cécile Feilchenfeldt reinterprets the corset through technical knitwear with flexible engineered boning that allows movement. Notably, the collaboration also produces trompe-l’oeil jewellery, where metallic elements appear trapped within knitted structures. Through these partnerships, ALAINPAUL connects historical craftsmanship with contemporary textile innovation.
Between Archive and Contemporary Life
Ultimately, the ALAINPAUL FW26 collection exists between archive and contemporary life. Through this collection garments become a form of living conservation, where historical references continue to evolve through modern design. In the end, much like a dance repertoire, ALAINPAUL FW26 shows how fashion moves through time, constantly reinterpreted by the body the the present moment.
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Leah Ermann is a South African Fashion Business student whose identity and vision are deeply rooted in the landscapes, cultures, and contradictions of her home country. Growing up in South Africa meant being constantly aware of extremes. These realities shaped her sensitivity to the world around her and challenged her understanding of fashion as something far beyond surface-level beauty. In a place where many people are fortunate simply to own a pair of shoes, Leah learned early on that clothing carries meaning, privilege, and responsibility.
Alongside this awareness grew a profound connection to nature and conservation, spending a lot of time in the bush deepened her understanding of the impact humans have on endangered wildlife and fragile ecosystems. Leah sees fashion as a silent but powerful language, a way to express identity, values, and cultural stories without words.
She is driven by a desire to explore the deeper meanings behind collections, to learn from new cultures, and to use fashion as a platform to amplify South African creativity, resilience, and humanity. Ultimately, her goal is to create work that not only reflects where she comes from whilst learning about other cultures, but also contributes to change, honoring both people and the natural world that shaped her.
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