QUINE LI: Crafting Wearable Sculpture

Designer Kuai Li explores handcraft, softness, and sculptural fashion

Founded by designer Kuai Li, QUINE LI is a New York-based fashion brand that specializes in experimental, sculptural, and conceptual womenswear. In her journey as a designer, Kuai Li first acquired a degree in Industrial Design from Beijing’s Central Academy of Fine Arts. Later, she moved to New York to pursue an MFA in Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). Kuai Li’s work is heavily influenced by her industrial design roots. In a word, it emphasizes geometric shapes (triangles, squares, hearts), structural experimentation, and the use of unconventional materials. Therefore, QUINE LI has gained significant recognition through high-profile celebrity placements. These include Kylie Jenner, Michelle Yeoh, Lizzo, Megan Thee Stallion and Rita Ora. Her brand, QUINE LI, is known for merging architectural precision with high fashion. That is why she treats clothing as “wearable forms” or “walking works of art”.

IRK: Your pieces celebrate the beauty of the handmade. What first drew you to incorporating artisanal craftsmanship into your design language and why is this language important to you as a designer?

Kuai Li: It may have to do with how I first learned to make garments. Coming from an industrial design background, I created numerous models to refine each final form. When I started designing clothes without knowing traditional garment-making techniques, I had to rely heavily on my hands and the unique properties of different materials. Besides, I often think of myself more as a sculptor—making clothes, for me, is a continuous process of shaping form. Through handcraft, I can communicate directly with the materials. This allows me to explore their flexibility, weight, and relationship to the human body. Furthermore, this design language helps me maintain a focus on the human element—both the maker and the wearer—bringing soul and warmth into the work.

IRK: What is your favorite aspect of ‘touch’ that you aim to highlight in QUINE LI and why?

Kuai Li: The sense of “touch” I want to highlight is not only something physical but also emotional. For me, a good design is one that can evoke emotional perception in the audience. For instance, in my first wearable collection Embrace Softness, I used a lot of padded materials to create tubes of different thicknesses. What you see and touch feels extremely soft. When you wear it, you feel as though it embraces you. You can actually feel that sense of softness and acceptance from within. That’s the kind of touch I want to express.

IRK: How has your connection to handcraft evolved over time?

Kuai Li: I’ve been experimenting with different techniques and materials over time. Since each of my designs is unique, the craftsmanship and materials I use also vary. For me, designing and making garments is like being an engineer. I have to carefully consider the balance between structure and material in order to achieve an aesthetically pleasing result. It is indeed very challenging. However, that’s also the beauty of fashion design.

At first, I tended to downplay traditional garment-making techniques and focused more on the characteristics and essence of the materials, treating it almost like an art practice. Now, as I create pieces for more diverse contexts, I’m exploring and mastering a wider range of craftsmanship techniques. This helps me improve the precision and sophistication of my work. Also, I’m always learning better techniques through experimentation.

IRK: Your designs feature traditional handcrafted details that feel deeply personal — how do you balance honoring those artisanal traditions while bringing a modern design sensibility to your pieces?

Kuai Li: Firstly, I deeply trust the warmth and energy of handcraft — it gives a soul to my work. To me, design is a form of art, and I’ve always been strongly influenced by contemporary art. Because of that, I constantly strive to create a sense of “newness” or to challenge conventional ways of thinking through my designs. Fashion, after all, is about expressing new ideas and reflecting future trends — and that aligns perfectly with my creative vision.

IRK: In an age of mass production, speed, and fast fashion, you’ve chosen to intentionally slow things down and step away from the fashion zeitgeist. What do you feel your intentionality of handcraft brings to your wearer’s experience?

Kuai Li: I believe that a slower creative process allows for truly unique designs, as it gives me more time to think and refine each idea. As a result, the wearer can feel and be drawn to the distinctive character of the piece. At the same time, I think it brings them a sense of confidence and courage. Not everyone is willing to embrace new ideas or try something unconventional.

I deeply admire that moment when someone with a strong sense of self and individuality wears my design and expresses themselves with confidence. That’s when I feel their spirit truly resonates with my work. I believe, in that very moment, she also learns to love herself more.

Full Credits