Virginia Kluiters Reclaims the Female Gaze

An exclusive talk with Virginia Kluiters about strength, softness, set design, and her path in photography.

Stepping into the visual world of Virginia Kluiters feels like seeing a timeless story between past centuries. As a result, drawing ideas from old paintings, Kluiters uses the special lighting style of classic art. Thus, she shows her subjects entirely through a fresh, modern view.

Moreover, based in Brooklyn, she runs her own studio, Velorum. Therefore, the artist, born in South Carolina, celebrates many sides of womanhood by balancing strength and softness in every frame. Indeed, for Kluiters, taking photos is not just about catching a moment. Instead, it is a way to give power and confidence, while challenging old rules of art history. Consequently, by moving away from the idea of the quiet model, she gives power back to her subjects and brings new life to classic art.

In this exclusive talk, we look at how her work has grown. First, we trace her path from her early days taking photos of friends to the set-building skills that define her work today. Then, we sit down with Kluiters to talk about how she handles power on the set. Finally, we look at why staying true to your own vision is the best secret to making timeless pictures in a world of fast-changing trends.

Virginia Kluiters on Classical Portraiture and Modern Lighting

IRK: How do you transform classical portraiture with Renaissance and Baroque lighting into a modern statement?

Virginia Kluiters: I often use references from classical portraiture that display restraint and a certain formality in the subject’s posing. I am inspired by this sensibility when I photograph my subjects as well.

I use buttery, soft, lighting to mimic candlelight, and pose my subjects in a contained and introspective way. The photos are vulnerable, soft, and antique, but the subjects have modern styling.

This combination of old and new is a recurring theme in my work, transforming photos of contemporary fashion into photographs with a fine-art sensibility.

Virginia Kluiters on Strength, Softness, and Modern Femininity

IRK: What does the delicate balance between strength and softness mean for modern femininity in your work?

Virginia Kluiters: I feel like my style is a reflection of both who I am and also of the concept of femininity in general. I am someone who grew up painfully shy, and who, even today, sometimes struggles with being assertive.

The stereotypical photographer traditionally has been a commanding male presence on set, but I am more of a subtle person. My photos are similar: usually, my models aren’t confronting the viewer with traditional power poses. Instead, they embody strength in their stately, statuesque posing.

Their softness doesn’t make them any less strong just like a more understated personality doesn’t make me less strong. Women can advocate for themselves and command a room in a variety of effective ways.

IRK: How do you actively challenge traditional art history by reframing subjects through the female gaze?

Virginia Kluiters: Historically, art history hasn’t depicted women in the kindest way. Women are frequently portrayed as muses or victims. And, these paintings are often done by men.

As a child, I was lucky enough to see famous paintings in museums with my parents, and the gorgeous light and color of those works drew me in, even though I remained unaware of some of the problematic themes. Even so, they left an imprint on me, and I continually use these images as a reference. By using this style as a female photographer in the 21st century,

I’m revisiting and reinventing old sensibilities. The modern clothing, subjects’ identities, and self-assured poses rework an old style into something more inclusive. Instead of nameless muses painted without agency by a man, the subjects have their own power.

Inside Velorum Studio: Virginia Kluiters on Set Building and Art

IRK: How has moving from Columbia, SC, to New York City shaped your artistic vision?

Virginia Kluiters: I used to dislike growing up between two cultures with my mom from South Carolina and my dad from the Netherlands. However, taking art classes and visiting museums abroad nurtured my early passion for the arts.

After majoring in Fine Arts in North Carolina, I moved to New York City to grow my art practice and pursue my goal of becoming a fashion photographer. A decade later, moving here was definitely the right choice. Access to great museums, supportive collaborators, and years of artistic exposure have allowed me to deepen my appreciation for fashion and refine my aesthetic. Looking back, I feel incredibly lucky.

IRK: Looking back at your roots, how do your memories of the American South continue to inspire your work today?

Virginia Kluiters: As I’ve gotten older, I’ve started to miss the sunsets on the coast of South Carolina, or the ability to wake up to a view of the woods. I miss those tall, super-skinny, southern pine trees which comfort me and bring me peace.

It feels like home, but in a different way than NYC does. The Carolinas are a space where trees surround me, allowing me to be almost totally alone and honest with myself. I can speak to my inner child who used to play in the woods, daydreaming with her friends, and become inspired by that childhood whimsy again!

IRK: How has photographing your female friends in the beginning shaped the inclusivity of your work today?

Virginia Kluiters: When I first became interested in photography, my friends and I were both easy subjects. I think that it was helpful having friends on the other side of the camera because they were already comfortable with me, and that made the process of photographing them more fun and effortless.

I’ve also always been naturally drawn to art depicting women, so I think that,
combined with my female friends standing in as subjects, created a natural affinity for photographing women. Over the years, I’ve worked with many different types of people, and many different types of women.

Moving forward, I want to continue to collaborate with people from a variety of backgrounds, identities, and body types. In particular, I’d like to shoot with more queer women, curvy and plus-sized women, and women of an older age. I think that representing a spectrum of femininity is important.

IRK: How has having your own studio, Velorum, changed the way you approach your fine art and fashion projects?

Virginia Kluiters: It took me 9 years to get to the place where I could afford to have a studio in the City. Prior to that, I shot in my apartment, outdoors, or in studios rented by the day. Since getting the space, I’ve opened Velorum Studio, which specializes in end-to-end commercial photography production for fashion brands. Running my own business has been a very stressful, but also a
rewarding experience. Having access to a studio has also allowed me to do personal shoots and creative projects much more often.

I’ve gotten into set building recently, which has been a fun journey, and something I can only do now that I have a studio. I lack any background in set design, but my husband possesses one, and his guidance has taught me more about different materials and basic carpentry.

My favorite is painting sets. I really enjoy the process of creating textures, both through layering materials and through illusion achieved by using different painting methods. This process comes really naturally to me, sparking a new curiosity and creativity. Focusing solely on photography for so long made it easy to get locked into only one medium and perspective. Set design has allowed me to break free of that and use different creative muscles.

IRK: In a fast-paced digital era, what is the secret to creating truly timeless visuals?

Virginia Kluiters: When shooting creative projects, I think the most important thing for me is staying true to my style and the subject matter that I prefer, no matter what the current trend is. There will always be someone who doesn’t like your work for one reason or another, and at the end of the day, what actually sets artists apart are their own perspectives and styles.

I try not to worry about being too “timeless” or “current” because trends are always changing. What should stay consistent is my artistic vision and my style. When I feel in my gut that the final visuals reflect me, then I know that I’ve succeeded.

Having said that, all artists are constantly evolving, so something that felt right a year ago might feel off now, and when that happens, I retire the image from my feed or my website, and move on. All work builds on itself, so I’m constantly referencing and perfecting my earlier work and concepts. I guess the themes I keep returning to are the real “timeless” element.

IRK: What impact have milestones like winning the Getty Images & Dove Show Us Grant had on your career?

Virginia Kluiters: Winning the Getty Images Grant was particularly exciting because it provided funding to produce a personal project that I would not have been able to afford without financial backing. Opportunities like this keep the momentum going, letting artists create at a higher level and boosting their confidence.

Awards and accolades also create visibility. When I’m featured in magazines and galleries, it allows more people to see my photos. That exposure is really helpful for connecting with other artists and, on a more practical level, with potential clients.

Interestingly, a lot of the best recognition actually comes from unpaid or low-paying creative projects, since those are the ones with the most room for creativity. That’s why I take on projects like these whenever I’m able to do so.

Credits:

Photographer + Set Designer: Virginia Kluiters
Photo Assistant: Derick Marquez
Wardrobe Stylist: Mo Johnson
Wardrobe Stylist Assistant: Anne-Marie Dillon
Hair Stylist: Aya Yamashita
Makeup Artist: Sasha Borax with Bridge Artists
Talent: Elle Dawson with State Management

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