The Burberry Trench Coat: History and Innovation
Catarina Afonso
Luxurious and timeless, the Burberry trench coat is a symbol and a staple of British fashion. V&A is exhibiting an open display that offers a glimpse into the iconic coat’s history.
The V&A and Burberry present “The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon”. The display features rarely seen material from the Burberry Archive and the V&A collection. Marking the British fashion house’s 170th anniversary, the display opens to the public from 21 September, at Prince Consort Gallery.
V&A is showcasing the history and craftsmanship behind the iconic Burberry coat. The trench originated as practical outerwear and military attire, and is now a world-renowned fashion staple.
V&A and Burberry: a longstanding relationship
The display also traces the relationship between Burberry and the V&A, two longstanding institutions of British fashion. Both share a commitment to using their heritage and collections to inspire the next generation of creatives.
The museum’s Prince Consort Gallery, the site of the display, also also serves as a symbol of the relationship between Burberry and V&A. Its mahogany cabinets once held fabrics from the textile collection, thereby offering a glimpse into the fashion house’s history.
“In advance of the V&A and Burberry partnership on the forthcoming Fashion Gallery, we are delighted to work with the Burberry Archive to showcase the history of the celebrated trench coat”, remarks Oriole Cullen, Senior Curator of Fashion and Textiles at the V&A. “[It’s] a British fashion staple that has stood the test of time and continues to evolve over a century on. The display includes a range of rarely seen objects from the Burberry Archive that tell the unique story of the Burberry trench.” Furthermore, it “showcases standout examples of how Burberry’s Chief Creative Officers have creatively reimagined the classic style.”
“The Burberry trench is a global design icon rooted in British craftsmanship and a symbol of innovation, creativity and timeless style”, affirms Carly Eck, Brand Curator of Burberry. “In this special display, the brand will publicly exhibit a myriad of objects from its Archive for the first time – from early 20th-century catalogues to a Burberry trench coat worn by fashion designer Hardy Amies. We are thrilled to partner with the V&A as a highlight of our global celebrations marking 170 years of the house.”
Invention, Craft and Creativity
The display begins with “Invention”, an exploration of Thomas Burberry’s development of cotton gabardine in 1879. This section traces the trench’s evolution into a design classic. “Craft”, the second section, delves into the various elements and techniques behind the trench. It focuses on details such as the hand-finished collar, the distinctive House Check lining and the detachable throat latch. The display concludes with “Creativity”, which features 19 runway looks from the past 25 years. Moreover, it includes designs by Chief Creative Officers Daniel Lee and Christopher Bailey.
“The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon” will be open to the public until 3 January, at the V&A in South Kensington. In addition, the Burberry Gallery opens in autumn 2028.
Featured image: General view of “The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon” display. Victoria and Albert Museum in South Kensington, London. © Jeff Spicer/PA Media Assignments
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I have always been very curious and interested in many different areas of knowledge. Over time, I understood that the best way to pursue my interests is to also be able to communicate them.
I enrolled in a Communications degree, majoring in Journalism. Later on, I pursued a Master’s in Arts, Cognition and Criticism, in order to expand my communication expertise into the art criticism field. I approach art subjects and themes by combining my journalism training with my knowledge of art analysis, both at a cognitive and at an institutional level.
My passion for fashion goes hand in hand with my passion for the arts. Beyond the aesthetic aspect, I am interested in the narratives, the identity and the cultural significance behind a piece of clothing, a painting or a photograph.
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