Two Advanced Sartorial Statements
New York Fashion Week Men’s comes to a close and London Fashion Week Men’s starts on the heals of Italy, a fashion narrative one can take from New York to London is the advancement of streetwear styles to a more dressed up sartorial statement. Suits from classic to Cabana sets have had a strong showing for Spring 2020 but don’t get rid of the track jacket or logo attire yet.
Nineteen-eighty was a significant tipping point for the suit to be made cool again after a long run of anti- fashion, leisure suits, safari suits, jump suits and other strange variations the barely credited label Giorgio Armani emerged as a superstar in a film directed by Paul Schrader ‘American Gigolo’. It was the first time we saw a man enjoying putting together suited looks with all of the details while dancing to Blondies 'Call Me'. Most of the imagery of the film read like a fashion editorial come to life…Suits in downtown LA? What’s noticeable in the background of the street scenes in the film is that all others where in shorts and tracksuits. Richard Gere’s sartorial statement established him as a leading man and Armani became synonymous with the suit. Leading man style seems to making a comeback
The fashion story continues and for spring there is a playful and serious mix of elements.
Timo Weiland presented at the top of the New York Men’s Week spectacular color, stunning tailoring and standout items. The vibe was new urban and fresh. What rings through with the collection is Weiland’s popularity as a DJ and this collection marks his re-launch into fashion after a ten-year absence. He has formed partnerships key to a stronger and new men’s fashion statement in step with a younger client. The eighties is a good thought to keep in mind due to fact one of the key shapes in the collection is the ‘big block on top of legs’, the double-breasted suit with wider leg pants.
The jacket is worn open almost like a topcoat, with a track jacket or graphic shirt underneath. These are statement looks for new suit wearer who is not going to part with his designer athletic trainers or the latest Doc Martin silhouette. The look is grown up and speaks to a wide range of clients particularly the way that work and dress spaces have transformed in the twenty-first century. Keep in mind these are statement looks and items
Freemans Sporting Club is a New York City based business specializing in handmade made in the USA custom suiting. The suit buyer in the know may be familiar with the brands Bowery location on the quickly gentrifying Lower East Side one block away from the New Museum. Many digital native New Yorkers may know the location because of the Freemans Restaurant located at the end of a dead end alley rich with political ‘Banksy style’ street art and graffiti ideal for social media.
The classic American suit silhouette finds is roots in the nineteen forties and the post World War II years. It’s true vocabulary is associated with the mid century man trading in the military uniform for the business suit. The silhouette is a single button jacket with a high forgiving armcye and flat front trousers. The lapels have seen their share of widths over the decades but tend to hover around the three and a half inch mark. If you are in the market for a classic that is not stiff or outdated this showing of hits the mark, bespoken and off the peg.
The Freemans Sporting Club suit is classic but not so classic it adds ten years to your age and one ends up looking like a member of a firm cutting a ribbon. The label hosted a casual presentation in the store was a mix of fashion week ‘say hello’ and fashion business, with major luxury retail buyers in attendance. Six models moved about in a range of dashing looks from subtle salmon colored checks in to bold window pane and resort ready sports jackets in linen paired with Ikat style shirting and a looser fit trousers. Beyond the suit there were very approachable ‘sporting’ styles with a uniform vibe in olive green and fine cotton corduroy. The Freemans Sporting Club is worth any gentleman’s time and appointment for modern fashionable suiting and items easily assimilated into a tasteful wardrobe.