Cecilie Bahnsen's Fall Winter 2024 collection, aptly named "The Bite," marks a significant departure into new creative territories while staying true to the brand's core essence of femininity and craftsmanship. The collection, as articulated by Bahnsen herself and her collaborator Casper Sejersen, delves into the dichotomy of desire, innocence, and the beauty found in simplicity.
Bahnsen's collaboration with Sejersen, who conceptualized the central motif of an apple, adds layers of meaning and depth to the collection. The apple, symbolizes desire, love, beauty, and strength. The Apple is the focal point around which the entire collection revolves, embodying the ordinary and the extraordinary aspects of life.
Regarding design and materiality, Bahnsen introduces a compelling juxtaposition of textures and fabrics. The interplay between high gloss leather and soft organza, shiny nylon, and matte knits, creates a visual and tactile contrast that reimagines the flat surface of fabric. Silhouettes, shorter and more voluminous than previous seasons, exude a sense of romanticism and playfulness.
The collection's fabrics undergo intricate transformations, with embroidery and laser cutting techniques breathing life into flat surfaces like organza, nylon, and cotton. Floral motifs inspired by Kiki Smith's etchings adorn the pieces, while the incorporation of leftover fabrics underscores Bahnsen's commitment to sustainability and ethical fashion practices.
Color is pivotal in the collection's narrative, transitioning from dark and moody hues to ethereal and almost ghost-like whites and greys. Indigo denim and rich navy knits add depth to the palette, while hints of silver and glossy textures inject a sense of modernity and edge.
Collaborations with Mackintosh, ASICS, Diemme, and ECCO Leather further expand the collection's universe, offering sculptural outerwear, innovative sneakers, and hand-embroidered boots that complement Bahnsen's aesthetic vision. Mackintosh's oversize and sculptural coats and jackets crafted with cotton offer a structural counterpoint to the soft silk dresses. This season their collaboration with ASICS presents brown and black trainers covered in exaggerated glossy flowers.
The runway presentation at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, was accompanied by a large-scale apple installation and an experimental soundtrack, encapsulates the collection's essence—bold, unapologetic, and forward-thinking. Models, chosen for their distinct personalities, breathe life into Bahnsen's creations, embodying the limitless possibilities of her creative vision.
Overall, Cecilie Bahnsen's Fall Winter 2024 collection transcends conventional fashion norms, inviting viewers to explore the complexities of desire, innocence, and the beauty found in simplicity, echoing the limitless possibilities of Cecilie Bahnsen’s creative vision.
