Gerda Goosen Wearable Creations

The Art of Expression: Gerda Goosen

South African jewellery designer Gerda Goosen is celebrated for her unique approach to art jewellery. Her creations transcend mere adornment, transforming into captivating forms of wearable art that celebrate individuality and creativity. By skillfully blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, Gerda crafts remarkable pieces that embody self-expression and artistic vision.

Her jewellery beautifully integrates creativity, exceptional craftsmanship, and originality, moving beyond fleeting trends to resonate with emotional depth and cultural significance.

In Dialogue with Gerda Goosen

Can you share a bit about your personal journey and how you became a designer?

I’ve always been fascinated by art and design in any form, ranging from architecture, nature, traditional / ancestral art and adornments, historical artefacts, furniture, interior design, modern art, etc. I just ended up in jewellery but love creative expression in all forms!

How do you describe Gerda Goosen designs?

One of my inspirations is traditional African art and jewellery, and this finds expression in what I call “African modernist”, which is a fusion of traditional African and modernist influences. But this is definitely not the only inspiration, and I do not want to be limited or boxed into one design aesthetic or style. So I guess the best description is “bold” and “adventurous”. I want to help people express themselves and break free from the limits of traditional fine jewellery.

Do you wear your creations yourself and if so, which are your favourites?

It might seem odd, but I actually don’t wear a lot of jewellery! I’m more focused on making it than wearing it. But I do wear my jewellery from time to time…

Do you have a favourite medium to work with? 

Just like I don’t like being hemmed in by styles, I also don’t like being limited by materials! Different materials allow for different means of creative expression based on material limitations and capabilities. I find it fascinating to explore what is possible with different materials. Different media have different possibilities, so I love dabbling in various media. But I guess vegan ivory is my current favourite!

What is vegan ivory?

The vegan ivory is not a resin, but rather a recipe incorporating several components.

I have experimented with many different materials and combinations (mixed materials) over the years. I love thinking about that and exploring what is possible.

My metal jewellery is from an earlier phase of experimentation than the vegan ivory! 

How important is sustainability to you?

Although sustainability is important, the main motivator to develop vegan ivory was the fact that I love the look and feel of ivory, but it is an animal product and, in many cases, obtained via illegal means. So I wanted an alternative that has the same look and feel, but does not incorporate any animal products. I’m drawn to the imperfection of natural materials and the impact of ageing and weathering on materials (what the Japanese call wabi-sabi), so the ‘fast’ fashion approach is not for me…

What does your studio space look like?

I perpetually have too little space, so have to reorganise things on a regular basis to ensure sufficient empty space for experimentation and creativity! The studio is full of experiments and styles in various stages of development. I also have an archive of objects and jewellery that I refer back to sometimes as inspiration.

Can you walk us through a typical Gerda Goosen day in your studio?

I’m not sure there is a typical day, as I don’t like to set too many boundaries for myself…

Some days I’m inspired by a shape or coming together of different objects, and I then start experimenting with those shapes. Usually, it ends up in a completely different place! Other days I like to focus on one design and trying to perfect it. Some mornings I wake up with a new idea and just have to make it immediately…

Can you tell me about the inspiration behind your metal designs. They are very bold and chunky as opposed to your more organic shaped vegan ivory pieces.

Each material has its own capabilities and limitations that naturally lends itself to specific styles, designs and approaches. I love thinking about that and exploring what is possible.

What has been the most rewarding piece(s) you’ve created?

Even though rings are the smallest jewellery category, that remains my biggest love. I am quite proud of the vegan ivory rings that I have developed.

Can you share a fun fact or an unexpected item in your studio that represents your personality as an artist?

I see beauty in unexpected places, like found objects. I like to collect those and make jewellery pieces from them! These I don’t sell or show to others. It is more for my own pleasure…

Do any stories stand out that have changed, or affected your creative process? Are there any pieces that have evolved through a mistake, or serendipitously?

Lots of my jewellery comes from mistakes, or through learning more about materials as I work with them.

Once, I received a few ceramic beads from a well-known ceramicist that had a lovely aesthetic, and next thing I knew it was 6 months later and I’ve done a huge number of ceramic experiments!

How do you stay motivated and inspired when faced with creative blocks? Do you have any go – to methods for rejuvenating your creativity?

I must say this is one area where I’ve never had a problem. I have way too many ideas and too little time… That’s why my studio is filled with experiments in progress.

Have you noticed whether your customers gravitate more towards one medium or do they prefer a mix of everything?

What has surprised me is that it seems there are customers for every medium and aesthetic. So I can’t really say that one medium is much more popular than all the others.

I’m happy about this, as it allows me to continue to work with all the different media/

What role does storytelling play in your designs? Do you have a particular narrative you aim to convey through your jewellery?

It doesn’t really play a big role for me – I believe we should have the freedom to appreciate an aesthetic without always having to have a narrative behind it.

I truly appreciate people that express themselves through their clothes, adornments, hair, body art, etc. and are not held back by societal conventions in those things.

Who are your biggest influences or inspirations in the jewellery design world?

My biggest inspirations are actually from outside the jewellery world. People like Massimo Vignelli and Emiliano Salci.

What challenges have you faced as a designer, and how did you overcome them?

Someone said that “every painting has its lover”, and I’ve come to understand that my aesthetic is not for everyone… I make things that are beautiful to me – and sometimes someone else likes it as well!

How do you balance artistic expression with the practical aspects of running a business? 

There is indeed some tension between these two things – luckily I have a keen interest in business as well, so I don’t find it too difficult. Although I must admit some aspects of running a business can be mundane and repetitive.

Are there any exciting projects or collaborations on the horizon that you can share with us?

One thing I’m planning is a ‘large and small’ jewellery release – I do get a lot of enquiries from people who are looking for jewellery outside of the ‘standard’ size ranges. I understand their frustration, as I am very small myself and struggle to find clothes, shoes etc. that fit me.

If you could collaborate with any artist—dead or alive—who would it be and why? What kind of project would you envision together?

Picasso was one of the most creative and prolific artists, and experimented with many styles and mediums. I think it would have been amazing to see his creative process.

Where do you see your art evolving in the next five years? Are there any new mediums or themes you’re excited to explore?

Haha, I have to constantly reign myself in to not go off on too many new tangents. I actually don’t know where my art will evolve… One thing is certain and that is that it will be bold!

What advice would you give to aspiring designers or jeweller’s looking to enter the industry? 

I think it is important to put in some effort to learn about the business side of things as well, otherwise you might waste a lot of time and effort trying to build something that is fundamentally not viable.

What inspired you to launch monthly releases?

It fits more naturally with my creative process – it allows me to experiment and evolve. I can put aside some time for all the aspects of the release (such as photographing the jewellery, loading it on the site, packing and shipping, etc.) instead of it filling up most of my time all month long.

I know your work retails at Ebony in Franschhoek, is it available in other outlets. 

It is not available anywhere else in South Africa. From time to time I have some stores internationally that sell my jewellery – mostly in the USA.

If you were not a jewellery designer what would Gerda Goosen be?

I think anything to do with the creative industries would have been fulfilling for me! Painter, interior decorator, architect, ceramicist, …

I read that you have said your customers are mostly designers, is this correct?

Yes, a large number of customers are people who work in the design industry…

I also read that you have said you are an introvert and your jewellery is definitely not, can you tell me about this please.

I’m more of an introvert when it comes to small talk, socialising, etc. But when it comes to art or business, I love talking about that with people who have real similar interests. I find traditional fine jewellery can be somewhat boring and repetitive, and my jewellery is a way of breaking out of that mould.

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Gerda Goosen Website

TATTY DEVINE X GRAYSON PERRY