Leigh Bowery at Tate Modern: Review

A Dazzling Dive into the Surreal World of Leigh Bowery, a Creative Maverick

As a true polymath, Leigh Bowery embraced many roles: artist, performance artist, model, TV personality, club promoter, fashion designer, and musician. He never allowed convention to box him in.

Bursting onto the vibrant nightlife scene of 1980s London from sunshine, Australia with his sewing machine in hand, Bowery blazed a daring trail. He moved through galleries, theatres, and streets with outrageous performances. He transformed clothing and makeup into captivating forms of painting and sculpture. Pushing boundaries, he tested limits of what was socially acceptable. He celebrated the body as a dynamic canvas, wielding its power to challenge views of beauty, sexuality, and gender.

Through his performances, vibrant club culture, and daring fashion design, Bowery crafted unforgettable images of the ’80s and ’90s. His icons still resonate today, over thirty years after his passing. His innovative spirit and audacious style influence contemporary legends like Alexander McQueen, Jeffrey Gibson, Anohni, and Lady Gaga.

The immersive exhibition allowed us to experience Bowery’s ‘Looks’ and collaborations. He worked with artists and friends Michael Clark, John Maybury, Baillie Walsh, and Lucian Freud. Also, he collaborated with Sue Tilley, Trojan, Princess Julia, Les Child, Andrew Logan, Lady Bunny, MINTY, and Boy George.

Bowery’s dynamic creative world blurred the lines between art and life.

The Tate Modern’s exhibition dedicated to Leigh Bowery is not just an event—it’s a vibrant journey. It explores the kaleidoscopic landscape of a daring figure in contemporary art and fashion. With Bowery as the centerpiece, the exhibition showcases a life of flamboyance, rebellion, and unwavering self-expression.

Born in Sunshine, Australia in 1961, Bowery arrived in London in 1980. He came with his trusty sewing machine, determined to make his mark. He quickly became a staple of the city’s vibrant queer nightlife and thrived in the atmosphere of clubs like Taboo, the Cha Cha, and Fridge. Here, he mingled with talented artists like Derek Jarman, Isaac Julien, and Neneh Cherry. Bowery’s close friend Sue Tilley became a muse, modeling his outfits and embodying his spirit. Their partnership was more than designer and model: they shared fierce loyalty.

Together, they forged connections within the vibrant LGBTQ+ community, creating a cultural tapestry that celebrated difference and encouraged authenticity.

What makes Tilley’s involvement compelling is her role as a historian of Bowery’s legacy. Her anecdotes and insights enrich the exhibition with intimacy and depth. Visitors are not merely observers; they become part of a story unfolding. It’s a tale of two creative souls navigating the complexities of identity and belonging.

The exhibition features Bowery’s performances, serving as a visual and emotional narrative of his life. Video installations capture his stage presence, showing personas that blur reality and fantasy. Each clip transports us to a realm where absurd and beautiful coexist, illustrating his challenge to societal norms.

Themes of identity, transformation, and community reflect Bowery’s enduring impact on art and fashion. It captures club culture as a refuge for exploration and expression. Creativity thrives here, as Bowery’s spirit continues to inspire artists to push boundaries and embrace uniqueness.

identity, creativity, and the celebration of difference.

In a world demanding conformity, “Leigh Bowery” at Tate Modern stands as a testament to individuality and collaboration. It pays homage to a remarkable artist, highlighting the impact of friendships, especially with Sue Tilley. The exhibition was a must-see for understanding identity, creativity, and the celebration of difference.

Anthony d’Offay Gallery

Parts of the traditional art scene welcomed Bowery during his lifetime. In 1988, he performed for five days at Anthony d’Offay Gallery. He played with various poses, using a chaise longue and a two-way mirror. Each day featured fresh looks, scents, and a soundtrack by DJ Malcolm Duffy. This paved the way for his involvement in Mark Clark’s “Hetrospective” and a collaborative performance with Nicola Rainbird. Among Bowery’s diverse works, the Freud portraits gained significant recognition.

‘Every day was a performance for Leigh, even if just one person was watching,” Sue Tilley noted for the exhibition catalogue. “Really, Leigh’s true stage was the nightclub scene. He made a grand entrance, showcasing dazzling outfits he spent a week creating. We would hit three or four clubs a week, follow exciting happenings, mingle with friends, and dance until lights came up.’

While Bowery’s contribution to art is gaining recognition, he also inspired friends and collaborators. His fearless approach to breaking norms was liberating for those around him.

Bowery collaborated with American video artist Charles Atlas on several projects, including “Hail the New Puritan” in 1986. It’s a faux documentary about choreographer Michael Clark, filmed in Bowery’s east London flat. In it, Bowery sports a futuristic look inspired by a Hindu deity.

Marina Abramović

In the Atlas video, “Mrs Peanut Visits New York” (1999), Bowery wears a homemade bodysuit inspired by “Mr. Peanut.” Atlas introduced Bowery to Marina Abramović, leading to their collaboration on “Delusional.” Abramović wore a sheer “queen rat costume” designed by Bowery with 400 live rats. She calls “Delusional” her most insane work, ‘His impact was strong on me immediately. Learning much from him about shame and extremes, he was a unique and fearless original.’

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LEIGH BOWERY!Tate Modern 

TATE Collaborated with Bowery’s wife Nicola Rainbird, Director and Owner of the Estate of Leigh Bowery.

CURATED by Fiontan Moran

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