BY MARIA DIAZ-GUASP & PATRICK MICHAEL HUGHES
March 6th, 2023
Loewe presented its Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear women's collection in Paris this past Friday. JW Anderson delivered artistically crafted garments that riff off the uncanny. Playful textures, optical illusions, and the brand's fresh, playful take on fashion highlight them as one brand to watch for this season.
Since stepping in as Loewe's Creative Director 10 years ago, JW Anderson has created a new sense of fun for the illustrious Spanish fashion house. This season, he embraces illusion, a continuation of the "reductionist act" that began with Loewe's previous men's show. Straight from the runways of Paris, the brand's runway presents a stance on silhouette, texture, and the way materials react to lighting. From hyperrealist illusions to three-dimensional ensembles, Loewe has created an optical illusion that made us take a second look.
With its women's show, Loewe asserts its ability to be visually captivating. The show opens with trompe l'oeil prints on dresses, seemingly giving a blurred and textured illusion. Dresses, and even a trench coat, printed onto white sheets, making you take a second look. Showcasing his affinity for textures and technical knowledge, Anderson continues the show with some contrasted feather two-tone sets. Drapes in leather, paper-like cardigans, silk duchesses, velvet, cashmere knit, paillettes, and crystals. Loewe continues to stage movement and the grace of the quality of the garments, making us wonder what clothes are versus what they seem.
At first glance, the collection seems relatively minimal, but upon inspection, the pieces were all infused with a lot of intention and play. Seamless leather garments and sets that gimmick a playful doll-esque illusion was the internet's hot topic after the show, similar to last season's pixel hoodie. This sort of playful minimalism is exciting and portrays the near future of fashion; lighthearted, fresh, and spirited.
