Phan Huy: a Fresh Voice in the World of Haute Couture

At only 26 years old, Phan Huy is the first Vietnamese designer to present on the official Haute Couture Week calendar, and he tells us everything.

After just two years and four collections, the eponymous label Phan Huy has been selected as one of the guest designers to present during Paris Haute Couture Week. Working in duo with stylist Steven Doan, Phan Huy becomes the youngest designer ever to join the official calendar. He is also the first Vietnamese creator to step onto the Paris couture stage. As a symbol of a new generation, he embodies a shift within the world of haute couture, long perceived as closed and highly traditional. His presence signals a new approach to craft and creativity. In this interview, Phan Huy opens up about how it all began, including his emotions and fears. He also shares his sources of inspiration and his dream collaborations.

PHAN HUY INTERVIEW

IRK: So many brands today aspire to enter the official Paris haute couture calendar. Yet the number of available spots is extremely limited. With your eponymous label, you managed to join it in less than three years. What do you think made the difference?

PHAN HUY: I think what really set us apart as an emerging brand was the strong emphasis we placed on detail from the very beginning. We focused intensely on elements that perhaps other contenders did not invest as much time in. Particularly, embellishment, embroidery, and textile experimentation. But above all, we aim to strike a balance between creating something unexpected and unorthodox, while still remaining deeply beautiful. I believe that this tension is what makes our work distinctive.

IRK: Is it challenging to create something disruptive in haute couture, given how deeply rooted it is in tradition? How do you navigate such a world governed by strict and precise codes?

PHAN HUY: It is challenging, but that’s exactly what makes it exciting. Haute couture comes with very strong traditions, and instead of rejecting them, we use them as a foundation. The craftsmanship, the precision, the quality, all of that remains essential. What we bring is freshness in the way we reinterpret those codes, especially by integrating Vietnamese cultural heritage and traditional crafts into a contemporary context.

IRK: But what led you to haute couture, rather than starting with ready-to-wear?

PHAN HUY: Haute couture has always been my main source of inspiration. When I was younger, I watched many couture shows, and that’s what truly made me want to become a fashion designer. To me, haute couture represents the highest form of fashion one can achieve, where creativity and craftsmanship meet at their most refined level. I strive to honor both, and I feel particularly confident when creating evening wear, which is where I feel the most expressive.

To me, haute couture is the highest form of fashion one can achieve.

AN EMOTIONAL JOURNEY

IRK: What’s also remarkable is that you are only 26. You are about to become the youngest designer ever to present during Haute Couture Fashion Week, as well as the first Vietnamese designer to do so. How does it feel to be, in a way, “the chosen one”?

PHAN HUY: When I first received the invitation to apply for Haute Couture Week, it felt almost unreal. The whole process was very intense, several interviews with the Fédération… but when I finally received the confirmation, it truly felt like a dream. I went through a lot of emotions, but above all, there was a deep sense of joy.

IRK: There must be a lot of pride, but also quite a bit of pressure. Expectations are huge for your debut.

PHAN HUY: I would say that the biggest pressure actually comes from within. I put a lot of pressure on myself, but it’s more a form of self-motivation than anything else. What i really want is to create a collection that makes me proud, first and foremost. Honestly, external pressure is not really part of my day-to-day reality; the only thing I truly focus on is creating beauty.

IRK: In Paris, haute couture is often compared to the Olympic Games of fashion, extremely prestigious and symbolic. But is it perceived differently in Vietnam? How did people react when the announcement was made?

PHAN HUY: At first, most people were honestly in disbelief and a bit in shock, to be fair, because the brand is only three years old, and we were already achieving so much. Receiving official recognition from the Fédération is probably the greatest honor you can have in fashion. Over time, that initial shock has turned into something else: a lot of pride and a lot of happiness from the people around me.

CREATIVE ENCOUNTERS

IRK: You’re not alone behind the brand, as you work as a duo with stylist Steven Doan. Can you tell us how it all started and what each of you brings to the brand?

PHAN HUY: The brand actually started with my final university collection. Together with my second collection, it gained some recognition in Vietnam, and that’s how Steven discovered my work. As we are both Vietnamese, we immediately connected over a shared desire to bring our country’s fashion and creative culture onto the international stage. That common vision is really what brought us together and led to the creation of the brand. Today, I lead the creative side as the designer, while Steven focuses on the strategic and business development of the brand as CEO. Our roles are different, but very complementary.

IRK: There is no better way to understand a brand than through the people it collaborates with. What has been your favorite collaboration so far, and who would be your dream collaboration in the future?

PHAN HUY: My favorite collaboration so far has been with Mỹ Tâm, a Vietnamese singer and musician. I truly loved working with her; she has an incredible sense of style and a very clear vision of what she wants, which makes the creative process both inspiring and fluid. My dream collaboration would be with Ariana Grande. I see her almost as a muse. To me, she embodies a very classic form of beauty and elegance, combined with a youthful presence and a light, modern energy. That balance is exactly what our brand tries to express.

Discover Phan Huy’s new collection on January 19th at 1:30 PM (Paris time).

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