Patrick Michael Hughes Men's Fashion Editor
The nineteen nineties are still a fashion influence as we enter the second decade of the twenty-first century. Are we are kicking and screaming, struggling to let go as the new century moves forward? Historically, this is not unusual, nostalgia tends to abound during the first quarter of each new century. What is interesting is what we look to and what is left behind.
There was a certainly retro musing with the Carlos Campos Spring/Summer 2020 runway collection presented at New York Fashion Week. The first bit of information provided about the collection was a quotation from the noted Irish playwright, critic and activist George Bernard Shaw whose life had a strong hold in both the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. “The only man I know who behaves sensibly is my tailor; he takes my measurements anew each time he sees me. The rest go on with their old measurements and expect me to fit them.”
It’s clear from this collection that Campos is in a new measure of time with a new measure in mind. He is looking to his personal muses and fragments of bespoken tailoring from the early nineteen nineties and moving it forward in crisp proportions akin to modern proportions featuring splendid fit, clean lines and elements of modern design. IRK noted while attending the Men’s Fashion Week in New York and the London Fashion Week Men’s suiting is key for Spring 2020. A standout suit silhouettes were the double-breasted with a button profile at the natural waist in Italian Merino wool. The peak lapels were lean and the jacket proportions were far shorter than the London suits musing from the same period. Campos's choice went well with his graphic block expression which made them a bit futuristic.
Striking Color and playful graphics were an integral part of the collection. The “Omni C” motif appeared singularly and in a bold repeat on graphic cut out wool gabardine short sleeve shirts, Cotton sateen pullovers and a Jacquard bomber jacket.
However, it was the unexpected take on one of Spring/Summer's 2020 top styles the ‘Cabana Set’ where Campos created a knock out look reaching beyond the beach or pool side venue into a well-dressed resort statement for a man with urban senses. The ‘Omni C’ jacquard short sleeve shirt tucked into trousers with the matching graphic further highlighted the playfulness and evolved retro vibe of the collection, what's more featuring first generation emoji- like graphics on trouser legs and a ‘Vote Carlos’ graphic designed shirt by Carlos Aponte.
‘Vote Carlos’!! was this the not so subtle optimistic statement for the future? It’s a good one looking to 2020's already copiously tweeted political narratives.
The well balanced collection for Spring 2020 still sees recognizable looks ‘Classic Campos’ style and items, such as a midnight /navy Italian Merino wool tailored suit with electric orchid graphic cut out and midnight navy with side seam piped details, further there was a velvety tan color blocked cotton twill short sleeve shirt with cotton trousers. Stripes a consistent motif for the brand were seen in a tan twill bomber jacket with Jacquard sleeves and striped trousers. Spring 2020 color to note is called electric orchid seen in details and statement looks such as a Merino wool tailored suit and color blocked gabardine trousers.
This was an excellent collection integrated with wit, skill and continuity. It looked back and carried value forward along with optimism for the future. It's also wonderful to see such diverse runway casting looking like the urbane streets of New York City. The gracious ending of the show was when Carlos Campos took his bow with his full team and baby son in his arms…