Patrick Michael Hughes Senior Fashion Editor
When a designer has an obsessive love of film like Natalia Alaverdian it may be second nature to refer to an iridescent tailored twin set a "Kubrickian melodrama" ....
A.W.A.K.E MODE at London Fashion Week was another season filled with rich themes from film and the designer's interest in 'duality' and 'interruption' this is how Alaverdian creates drama.
A/W 2020 Alaverdian directs, as much as she designs, a collection, for a cast of characters in her imaginary film. The synopsis of her film is "a Soviet aerobics class -sent to space." Weavers and devoted fans of A.W.A.K.E MODE are, interested in this type of dichotomy. The label is defined by knowing contrasts; this seasons spirit of cheeriness and sporty ease lives in zipped up fine knit track tops, off set by the drama and severity of a black silk frock coat to the iridescent tailored twin set.
For Alaverdian these is no one"woman' there could never be, Autumn/ Winter imagines playwrights ,geeks and cinephiiacs. Fans of The Royal Tenenbaums, Wes Anderson's 2001comedy, will no doubt see the sense of preppy sprint in the clothes. Boy's in bands are equally an inspiration Alaverdian for in this collection as female front -women. Wit is not lost in this collection however, it's the personal statement of the designer lending to a stronger sense of ownership she passes along to her clients.
A noteworthy place in the A.W.A.K.E MODE collection which highlights ‘interruption’ is in the impulsive flash of zebra cotton twill at the cuff of a blazer sleeve; shimmering sequins set against heavy herringbone checks. There’s a Space-Odyssey-strangeness and brilliance to holographic hero looks, the textile is like paper, some almost like tarpaulin.
Pleated lamé flows throughout. Amidst the exuberance, there’s a calm reassertion of house signatures in masterfully tailored day dresses, alongside taken-apart and remixed suiting.
A.W.A.K.E. MODE's accessories for A/W 2020 continue to take off as a part of the brand’s continually expanding global business. Alaverdian considered the pieces a kind of ‘armor for space creatures’ - tassel leather mules, oversize quilted bags with sculpted metalwork.
Alaverdian’s personal passion for jewellery was also on display this season the sense and forms were fluid working with in the Space Oddity theme. There is no such thing as straight-
forward simplicity in the world of A.W.A.K.E.MODE - executed in vegan leather, the accessories collection is a meaningful example of the method, and technical perfectionism which this label does so well.