Stéphane Rolland, the French couturier, showed his spring-summer 2023 collection at the Théâtre de Chaillot, across from the Eiffel Tower, on Tuesday, January 24. While the cold outside prevailed, the designer transported his guests to a youthful and poetic Brazil. The show opened with a single exaggerated sculptural shoulder gown that flowed across the floor thanks to its aerial fabric.
The collection builds on a three parts story starting in Rio in the 1970s with architectural and structural designs. The second section refers to Brazil’s Amazonian roots, and the Indigenous people from the rainforest. Sculptures adorn dresses in solid form. Finally the third act stems back to another period in Brazilian history; the conquistadors with their gold treasures. Rolland was also influenced by the sumptuousness of the church in Bahia.
Despite the rich historical and cultural references Stéphane Rolland's elegant woman is never far away. The necklines are higher, and the slits go the entire length of the leg. The lines are flowing and graphic, with dramatic volumes that offer an overall sense of movement, a XXL neck, and architectural sleeves. The monotone silhouettes of the collection are brought to life by huge golden cuffs, giant earrings, and necklaces adorned with beautiful stones. Deep green malachites are also seen along the vertiginous neckline of a fluid emerald-colored gown, while a golden crepe gown features an outstanding hood etched with amethysts with intriguing reflections.
The bride concludes the event wearing a golden lamé cape with exaggerated volumes and embroidered with "Marajoara" sculptures, pre-Columbian emblems, in respect to the Black Madonna of Aparecida, particularly the patron saint of Brazil.