Patrick Michael Hughes Men's Fashion Editor
Gender is a frontier in the early twenty-first century. New York Fashion Week Men's is not known for non-binary, gender fluid collections. The American spring summer look during the New York shows is fairly affixed to street wear, ripping, toned bodies and one to two steps to the left of Abercrombie and Fitch clutching at the edge of Supreme like vibe. This is why during a hot and short few men's fashion days Alessandro Trincone's 'Avvolgini' for Spring 2019 was a welcome debut and provoking creative expression reminding us that there are other chapters and experiences in fashion.
The 'glittering draped' collection which is one of the loose translations of the collections title was a fashion story of 'a personal journey which begins by discovering ourselves and ends with the free and resolute choice of self- expression.' Trincone asks us to be sensitive and show empathy,' wrap your love around me, is also another loose translation of 'Avvolgini'. Verbal violence leaves scars and in Trincone's experience memories of physical violence play into this epistemological collection and experience of looking for help everywhere in vain. Finally help and knowledge came from reconnecting with the self and power within as a form of protection... this is where the clothing's silhouettes manifested. This collection is a celebration of life and people who find courage to be themselves at any cost. This expression of self was captured in a series of gowns, dresses, and conceptual pieces evoking space oddity glitter, Balenciaga baby doll dresses and floor length floating tiered ruffles. Was this haute couture for men? No, but it was a performative fashion collection, a personal platform looking to the next level, there was a feeling of optimism and bravado, something we understand in New York.
Going all out is an expression of protection for Trincone, the performance of self has a sizable voice, in this collection and at times a bit distracting. Its unfortunate that some of head wear over shadowed some very elegant pieces. There were clothes in this collection beyond the runway styling statements, sequined jackets, and shorts (a must so far for spring 2019), ruffle detail pants and white sleeveless shirts with wide collars and covered button details. The colors were mainly white, silver and gold.
This was a solid debut and it will be interesting to see the growth of the collection and brand, the design vocabulary, nuanced silhouettes, stronger textile sensibilities and the next fashion story Alessandro Trincone has.
