MaXhosa Africa Spring/Summer 2027: Heritage on the Runway

MaXhosa Africa kicked off Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2027 on Monday, 28 September. Laduma Ngxokolo presented his collection ‘Izihlwele Zivumile’, Xhosa meaning ‘The Ancestors Have Given Their Blessing’. From the live Zulu vocal performance and the show’s setting at the South African ambassador’s residence in Paris, to the collection’s Xhosa-inspired knitwear and beadwork, the défilé was a true celebration of Ngxokolo’s mother continent.

Ngxokolo birthed his cultural luxury brand MaXhosa in 2010, with the core principle of repositioning diverse African cultures at the heart of society. Beyond its dedication to fashion, MaXhosa has a second prerogative: to contribute to the growth of the African economy. In 2024 Ngxokolo founded the non-profit organisation Lindelwa Foundation, named after his late mother, to invest in educational and community-driven projects. Through this partner initiative, Ngxokolo uses fashion as a tool to connect different African cultures, advancing his vision for an Africa built, protected, and funded by its own people.

Each MaXhosa Africa piece is proudly made in Africa, using native resources, thus supporting local communities and businesses. Indeed, through both the style and the substance of his pieces Ngxokolo pays homage to his African heritage, preserving the continent’s cultural past, and giving it a place amongst the fashions of the present and future.

MaXhosa Africa: Full circle

Izihlwele Zivumile marks MaXhosa’s first full runway show at Paris Fashion Week, and what a monumental debut. It takes place in the South African ambassador’s residence, in the same venue that showcased the brand’s very first presentation for Paris Fashion Week 2024. Six seasons later, MaXhosa returns to the symbolic space, still rooted in the core values it was born with, only now slightly older, more experienced, with a stronger sense of identity and a fresh take on classical African culture.

For Laduma Ngxokolo, his PFW runway debut is about so much more than achieving another international fashion milestone; it is about putting a luxury African fashion house on the global market. Thus, carving a space for African culture, identity and creativity to exist worldwide and on its own terms.

The collection

Izihlwele Zivumile marks the brand’s shift to a more modern aesthetic language. Bold monochromes, graphic knits and statement accessories emphasise the structure, textiles and artistry of the clothes.

Through the collection, Ngxokolo aims to redefine the world’s perception of premium African fashion. By transforming Xhosa garments and African iconography into contemporary ready-to-wear fashion, cultural traditions are given new life in the modern world.

The show opens with a model hoisting a black flag embossed with the MaXhosa Africa crest. Brandishing the banner along the runway, dressed in a matching black monochrome tweed suit, this initial look set the theme for the show to come: celebrating the brand’s and Africa’s growing presence and significance across borders.

On the whole, jacquard knit co-ords are a key feature of the collection. For example, the menswear includes textured shorts and shirts or trousers and blazer two piece suits. Similarly, womenswear sports a range of button-up shirts or crop tops and pleated midi skirts. Classic Xhosa-inspired geometric prints serve as cropped bralette tops, offering a playful re-imagination of conventional African dress. Simultaneously, Ingqosha collar necklaces, inspired by Xhosa beadwork, are layered over high-fashion tailored knit suits. Some models hold graphic monochrome print handbags, while others carry horse-hair Intonga staffs associated with Xhosa ceremonies. And so, sacred artefacts and contemporary fashion accessories coexist in beautiful harmony.

A vision for pan-African unity

Laduma Ngxokolo expresses his vision for Pan-African unity in every one of his designs. A focal piece in the form of a knit dress bears the names of different African nations. Each country stands alone in a different block colour, embroidered into separate pleats on the skirt. Thus, each nation exists individually, while simultaneously meshing together as one tapestry of united African countries on the dress. Ngxokolo presents the diversity of the continent, also advocating his belief in Pan-Africanism, suggesting these individual nations are stronger together.

Another grey and black two-piece brandishes a distinctive shape of Africa across the chest. The block black geographical silhouette stands out boldly against the surrounding white and grey margins. This centrepiece, formed from a resized map projection, emphasises the mighty magnitude of the continent.

All in the details

Sentimental and iconographic African accessories complete the collection. Architectural headdresses, Xhosa walking staffs, beaded jewellery and large wooden earrings adorn the looks. Beaded cowrie crowns frame the models’ faces. These structural coronets, encrusted with cowrie shells, are representative of West African royalty, evoking the collection’s theme of African prosperity.

MaXhosa Africa’s dedication to cultural sustainability continues through the accessories. The collection uses recycled African waste materials for the eyewear and earrings. Essentially, the eyewear, designed by Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru, using discarded materials from South Africa, connects two African cultures. Similarly, oversized diamond shaped earrings repurpose scrap materials into organic forms reminiscent of traditional wooden jewellery.

Bags in all forms adorn the outfits. We see high-fashion baguette bags, insulated cooler bags and oversized carrier bags, as well as recycled African-flag-inspired tote bags gifted to the audience. The bags represent travel and movement; intended to carry more than just belongings, they suggest the transportation of pan-African heritage across international borders.

Custom footwear by Adidas completes selected looks. Animal print ballet pumps and bright sports trainers keep the collection fun and wearable from head to toe.

Beyond the MaXhosa collection

MaXhosa Africa, alongside its initiative, The Lindelwa Foundation, implements fashion as a tool for African cultural diplomacy. Undoubtedly, this profound connection between craft, resources, and tradition is evident in every single detail of the show.

MaXhosa Africa sent its Paris Fashion Week invitations in the form of a passport, embellished with the brand crest, establishing the collection’s core themes of culture, diplomacy, and regalia. The passport traces the literal and metaphorical sixteen-year journey of the brand: the places it has travelled and that have influenced its identity, as well as the ancestors integral to those lands. Above all, the passport invitation encapsulates how creative industries can open doors for African talent across borders and signifies MaXhosa’s growing global reach.

The show’s connection to African land, labour and craft manifests in the set design. South African artist Xander Ferreira places Ikhukho, traditional African grass mats handwoven using reeds, around the space. They carpet the runway and decorate the walls, culminating in a spiralling sculptural centrepiece inside the ambassador’s residence. Thus, this simple and singular aspect of set design places ceremonial African life in the heart of Paris. By laying grass from African lands on Parisian ground, a tangible physical connection between the two geographical locations is formed.

Following the brand’s sustainable ethos, rather than a single-use prop, the mats are later repurposed as the background of the Spring/Summer lookbook. And so, preexisting cultural material is recontextualised rather than replaced.

A Show beyond the Fashion Show

From start to finish, the MaXhosa presentation was beautiful theatre, showcasing impeccable design alongside live musical performance. Multi-award-winning South African artist Sjava opened with a spiritual Zulu soul performance. He sang a fusion of two songs, Umcebo and Amakhela, one meaning wisdom and the other commemorating ancestral guidance. Singing from the balcony overlooking the runway, the emotional melodies soared over the audience. Soon, I found myself tapping my feet to the beats, and some of the guests joined in with the lyrics.

The finale concluded with a poem written by Thebe Ikalafeng, a global African branding authority. The ballad celebrates Africa’s heritage, identity and diversity while paying homage to the continent’s struggles with colonialism, unrest and poverty. The poem summarises the spirit of the collection, a reflection on the brand’s roots and its journey so far, ultimately honouring the cultural, human and creative richness of MaXhosa’s mother continent, Africa.

Ultimately, MaXhosa’s progression from presentation to runway for Izihlwele Zivumile attests to the brand’s growing global presence and continued commitment to pioneering fashion as a means to celebrate and preserve diverse African cultures on an international stage.

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