Batignolles, How To Spend The Perfect Day in Paris

A guide to Batignolles, the city’s best hidden gem.

On the first Friday in September, blessed with sunny blue skies, I set out on some boots on the ground journalism, to discover some of Batignolles’ best spots for myself. I can safely say from first-hand experience this is the perfect way to spend the day, in what I now call my favourite part of Paris.

Tucked away in the 17th, Batignolles feels more like a little village than part of the big city. I was initially lured in by the independent cafes, bespoke shops, artisan restaurants and delis. But it was the community spirit that kept me there all day.

With locals seemingly outnumbering tourists, the charming quartier evokes a fairy-tale village, where everyone has their go-to butcher, greengrocer, clothes shop, café and restaurant. In a city increasingly populated by chains, the small businesses here feel deeply personal, with each product reflecting its creator. It is the connection between shopkeeper and shopper, between owner and customer that gives Batignolles its distinctive charm. Spend a day here and you leave with more than a full stomach and a full shopping bag. You leave feeling like you have a place you belong to, a community to return to, a little slice of Paris made just for you.

First Things First: Coffee

Strong coffee is mandatory for the fun-filled day ahead, and Vague Coffee Shop is the place to go. A short eight minute walk from Rome metro station, the cafe is a true embodiment of Batignolles’ community spirit.

Owner Dani makes more than great coffee; he creates an atmosphere so inviting you’ll stay long after your cup runs dry. At Vague, everyone is welcome: the locals come for their go-to, the visitors grab theirs to-go, even dogs have a place here. I couldn’t stop petting Robbie, Vague’s adorable mascot dog.

Dani’s eclectic background is woven into every part of the Vague experience. His Vietnamese heritage, fifteen years working in Australian hospitality and experience of owning a cocktail bar in Paris, Pigalle, mesh together to create Vague’s distinctive brand. Here the flavours of Laos meet the techniques of Australian coffee culture. Dani’s knowledge of cocktail mixology is reflected in the craftsmanship of every drink. Each offers a unique gustatory experience: think Miso Caramel Lattes, Earl Grey Matcha and homemade Raspberry and Basil Lemonade.

Inspired by Dani’s time in Bali, the joyful interior echoes the chilled ambiance of Lombok’s surfing towns. Sit inside, amongst warm red tiles and inhale the smell of roasting coffee beans. Or, weather permitting, perch on the sun-soaked bench outside and watch the little world of Batignolles go by.

What to order

Having tried it myself, I have to recommend the iced coconut cloud matcha. A terrific blend of sweet coconut water and strong matcha foam swirled with homemade vanilla syrup and coconut cream. This delicious beverage both cools you down and perks-you-up, the perfect caffeine fix before the day of exploring ahead.

Rest assured coffee connoisseurs, Vague also has all the classics covered. From espresso based coffees, like their best selling flat white, and a range of iced coffees, to V60 filter coffees. With customisable beans of various flavour notes like orange blossom, rose or berries, you can truly personalise your drink. Keep coming back, and before long, the barista will know your order off by heart.

Next up: A Batignolles Breakfast

Now you’ve quenched your thirst, it’s time for some proper fuel. And if you only visit Batignolles for these bakeries alone, it would be well worth the trip.

Pleincoeur

Recommended by Vague’s Dani, just a stone’s-throw away from his café, lies Pleincoeur. Founded Maxime Frédéric, the award winning pastry chef for Louis Vuitton, Pleincoeur is simultaneously boulangerie, pâtisserie and chocolatier, recently adding glacier to the list with their viral soft serve creations.

The bakery combines Frédéric’s prestigious patisserie training with his Normandy roots, sourcing many ingredients directly from his families Norman farm. And so, the result is something deeply Batignolles: high quality products with a personal touch.

Must try: The Pain Suisse, a reimagined classic shaped into a circle with a chocolate pool centre.
If you’re feeling adventurous, swap traditional breakfast for one of their famous ice cream creations.

Aux Pains D’Émile

A few minutes from Pleincoeur, and slightly more rustic in both style and substance, Aux Pains D’Émile is a truly authentic French boulangerie pâtisserie. The glass cabinets are bursting with everything you can imagine: classic pastries, as well as bite-sized financiers and madeleines.

For those who prefer a savoury breakfast, there are ten types of quiche and an array of sandwiches, including croque monsieurs. The prices are affordable, the food delicious and the staff friendly. What’s not to love?

Must try: The Viennoise Chocolat: a sweet melt-in-your-mouth chocolate brioche.

Tranché

Five minutes round the corner, the final stop of the Batignolles bakery crawl has to be Tranché. Despite having a few locations in Paris, Tranché Batignolles retains the personal touch of the rest of the quartier.

The shops’ completely glass exterior showcases the bakers at work shaping and kneading dough, and invites the passers-by inside to watch and taste. The pâtisserie offers reimagined French classics, swapping traditional boulangerie techniques for a sourdough fermentation process. These gut friendly bakes use only organic and local ingredients. Without a doubt, Tranché’s creations are baked with love.

Must try: Pistachio babka or chou vanille.

A Bit of Batignolles Culture

With the stomach now satisfied, it’s time to feed the mind. And Batignolles boasts a culture almost as rich as the Flans in its boulangeries.

Église Sainte-Marie des Batignolles

Located at the heart of the quartier, Église Sainte-Marie des Batignolles is hard to miss. The Church was constructed between 1828 and in 1851 by architects Jacques Molinos and Paul-Eugène Lequeux. Its white exterior is relatively austere, resemblant of a Greek Temple, a flat building with four columns.

However upon entry, free to the public, you’ll find detailed ornamentation in the form of stained glass windows, sculptures and a hand carved altar. The Church forms the head of a quaint square lined with terraced bistros, so either explore the interiors or simply admire the building from the comfort of a bar stool.

Musée Jean-Jacques Henner

For the art and history buffs amongst you, Musée Jean-Jacques Henner, dedicated to the renowned French symbolist artist, is certainly worth a visit. You’ll find the Museum a pleasant fifteen minutes stroll from the Church, which conveniently passes several of the spots on this guide.

While some of the painter’s works are displayed at Musée D’orsay, this gallery offers the most extensive collection of Henner’s work in all of France. The museum houses over 2200 drawings, symbolist paintings, portraits and sculptures by Henner, alongside varying temporary artist exhibitions. Free on the first Sunday of every month, or for under 26s, or otherwise it costs €8.

Even better: discover the collections for free from the 19-20th of September, as part of the European Heritage days.

Lunch

By now you’ve probably worked up a bit of an appetite, luckily, Batignolles is full of excellent places to eat.

Mova

Awarded a Bib Gourmand in the 2024, 2025 and 2026 Michelin Guide, Mova is the obvious choice for a proper sit down meal.

Chef and owner Françoise Merle prioritises modern French dishes crafted from only the freshest local ingredients. His innovative lunch menu changes weekly, in accordance with seasonal produce. So, whenever you visit you’re guaranteed a new and exciting flavour experience. And the best part? is These award winning dishes are surprisingly affordable. The Menu du Déjeuner, available Tuesday-Friday comes in at just €24 for two courses, or €30 for all three.

The week I visited served a menu déjeuner of dreams. Thai-inspired cod ceviche or melon with goat cheese cream and Parmesan crumble to start. Then for the mains: either confit lamb shoulder with pak choi, cabbage, and herb labneh; or roasted cod and haddock with risotto. And to top it all off, either a hot chocolate mousse elevated with cocoa crumble and white miso ice cream, or figs with white chocolate ganache and herb sorbet for dessert.

What’s not to like?

Munch

For a quicker and more casual bite, it has to be Munch. Both Batignolle locals and Parisians from far and wide journey here for NYC style bagels. Also recommended by Dani at Vague, I arrived at 12pm to find a queue already spilling out of the door.

The menu offers a range of bagel fillings: from the simple bagel with labneh cream-cheese, a jam packed pastrami cheddar, the classic labneh and salmon lox, to my personal favourite ‘the courgette’: possibly the most moreish veggie sandwich ever. Built from the delicious labneh base and piled high with marinated courgette, pickles, radishes and mint. You’ll have difficulty wrapping your jaws around this flavour-packed delight, but trust me, its well worth your while.

A Spot of Shopping

Now it’s time for a bit of cardio to walk of some of that food. And by cardio, of course, I mean shopping. Batignolles is full to the brim with independent stores: shoemakers and bag makers, jewellers and florists, clothes boutiques and vintage shops, cheesemongers and Italian delis. So, there’s truly something here for everyone. Take a walk on and around Rue de Batignolles to discover them all for yourself. Notable mentions include:

Miss Sugar Cane

For second-hand shoppers: Miss Sugar Cane is like love at first sight. A true vintage haven of clothes, bags, and shoes, as well as both antique and handmade jewellery. The boutique is authentically vintage, with each piece aged between thirty and one hundred years old. What’s more, owner Marie sources each piece herself, restocking the shop weekly with new finds. The result: a treasure trove of one-of-a-kind pieces at reasonable prices.

Eiden Bijoux

Eiden Bijoux jewellery shop is laden with stylish yet wearable pieces that are both high quality and affordably priced. Whether it’s a present for a loved one or a gift for yourself, if jewellery is what you’re after, Eiden is the place to go.

Each piece is made using durable materials of stainless steel and natural stones hand-sourced from partners in Paris. Choose between the Eiden Collection: a range of ever-changing, sophisticated and slightly rock-chic designs, or create your own piece with Eiden Autographe. Share in the creative spirit of the Batignolles and workshop with the jeweller to engrave your piece and customise the gems and design. You’ll leave with something completely bespoke and entirely your own.

French Touche

True to its name this shop brings a distinctively French Touch to Batignolles. A complete embodiment of the quartiers indie culture, owner Valerie handpicks each product based on its artisanal design and the creative narrative behind its maker. The result is a curated, gallery-like space of innovative art and design pieces.

Its slogan, ‘Gallery of Touching Objects’, is more than a metaphor: the space hosts pop-up art exhibitions, showcasing local French artists and designers. More than just a shop, it’s a platform promoting true craftsmanship, where designers, culture, art and work are celebrated.

Rather than one singular shop, French Touche is more like six individual boutiques: a vinyl, jewellery, stationery, homewear, toy and vintage shop all rolled into one commercial paradise.Indeed, the focus here is artisanal pieces ‘touched’ by the creator, prioritising bespoke craft and design. Choose a souvenir, and you get to take a little piece of that away with you.

Happy hour o’clock

If you spend as much time browsing the shops as I did, it should now be around five or six o’clock, and coincidentally, happy hour time. What better way to end the perfect day than with a crisp, cold drink?

Les Caves Populaires

Undeniably a neighbourhood Parisian bar, Les Caves Populaires is nestled in the corner of shopping streets. Alongside a range of French wines, the cosy bar offers a lengthy happy hour from 4-8 pm, with pints priced at €4 and coffees at €1. If you stay the full four hours in this barganacious bar, you’re sure to leave very happy indeed.

La Villa Batignolles

If it’s a slightly more glamorous bar you’re after: try La Villa Batignolles, whose happy hour runs 6-9 pm Tuesday through Saturday. Chic yet relaxed, La Villa is the locals’ go-to spot: a polished counter-seat bar famous for its strong cocktails. It is the chosen after-work watering hole for nearby offices, and after a busy day yourself, share in the feeling of a hard day’s work done, nursing a well-earned cocktail in hand.

Located just a short stumble from the Clichy train station, La Villa is the perfect spot to kick back for one, or two, or three, before jumping on the metro home.